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The Nanaimo Free Press


Volume XXXII
Number 258
Nanaimo, British Columbia, Saturday, February 16, 1907
Evening Edition

Mr. M. Bate, Continues His Nanaimo Reminiscences

Interesting Article by Mr. Bate To-Day Deals With The Location of the Various Places Connected With the First Coal Mines in Nanaimo.

(Continued from last Saturday)
The coal mines in operation were: Park Head level, and Dunsmuir's level, both adits driven from the out-crop, in a southerly direction, into the seam known as the Douglas.  The first named was the highest level, and it commenced at a point near the bottom on the west side of Victoria Road -- the second at the foot of Nicol street, about in a line with the front of the Fire Hall.  The workings here were of small extent -- the average yield less than 30 tons per diem.  There was also a slope sunk to the dip of Park Head level, but being near the crop the coal was tender and unfit for export.  At a later date a slope was driven from Dunsmuir's level in good coal, which reached a fault known afterward in Douglas pit, as the "Pitch".  Indians were the "pushers" in the mine, and a stiff-kneed horse did the hauling.  The bodies of the "skiveys', or baskets, by which the coal was conveyed along the main road, were made of cedar twigs, which, after being heated, were easily bent between the pine stubs, driven into auger holes made in the frames, as bolted on the wheel axels.  All the coal was tipped in a heap, thence carried by Indians to canoes for shipment.  A year or so subsequently jetties were built -- one on the water front of the lot belonging to Mr. T. Hardy, the botanical chemist, another were the McAdie block is erected.

The Park Head mines were abandoned in the winter of 1862-3.  The pillars had been drawn from the back and those at the entrance of the Adit were being extracted.  To keep themselves warm the miners made a bit of a fire just at the Adit mouth, left it smouldering when quitting work for the day.  A strong wind arose during the night, the fire spread rapidly, and the next morning the mine was in flames.  Stoppings were put in, and the air shafts closed, but the coal, dross, etc, under a considerable area, burnt for many years.  The overlying strata were rent by the heat, and volumes of smoke and steam escaped through the openings where the rocks were parted.

Previous to the opening of the Park Head levels, coal had been raised:

1.    From an open cut along the beach, below Hirst's warehouse; on the Wharf street side.  It was here that coal was first discovered by the Indians, one of whom, when visiting Victoria in 1852, saw coal burning in a blacksmith's shop; he then told the smith there was "plenty black stone like that at Nanaimo."  The informant was thenceforth known as the "Coal Tyee" -- a title of which he felt proud.

2.    From ground in the neighborhood of Mr. J. Booth's cigar manufactory.  (The seam hereabout was followed and mined until the covering became too thick and to expensive to remove, then a shaft followed.)

3.    From No, 1 shaft -- which was under the Wharf street side of the Williams Block.

4.    From No. 2 shaft -- under the Nanaimo Hotel.

5.    From a slope at Pemberton's Emcampment -- under the bluff in front of the Shoe Factory.

6.    From a level -- free of Newcastle Island lower seam over from the Brechin mines.

7.    From a thin seam on Protection Island, which crops out at the Bay just south eastwardly of the Gulf of Georgia Fishery.  (A stratum of shale immediately overlying this seam, exhibits traced on it, with most beautiful and delicate accuracy the fossilised leaves and stems of various ferns and other plants.)

Much exploratory work had been done too.

1.    Coal found at Chase River.

2.    Under the rocks, by sinking, back of the house occupied by Mrs. John Sabiston.

3.    Under the table rock at the approach of Johnston's Wharf.

4.    Shaft No. 8, below Front St., nearly opposite the government courthouse, sunk to the coal, and made ready for the sinding engine.

5.     A shaft sunk to the upper seam on the Gulf side of Newcastle Island. (Some remarkably firm, flawless, and even slabs of Sandstone were obtained over the coal here, which were sent to Victoria for Hearthstones.)

6.     A shaft was started in the "Green" -- the old 24th of May picnic ground.

7.    A core-hole, back of where Mr. A. S. Hamilton lives -- the rods broke and were lost.

8.    Bores on Newcastle and Protection Islands.

9.    A drift into the bank, just above high water mark, near where the Union Brewery sunk a well, below Mr. W. Akenhead's stables.  (A copious stupply of pure water was struck here, which ran continuously, and served for years to supply nearly the whole inhabitants.  A small foot bridge was built over the Ravine to facilitate a passage to the "Spring".)

10.    An attempt was made to open a Level where the drainage from the old Douglas workings runs, near Mr. T. Hardy's, but the miners were not apparently, at that time equal to the job.  At any rate they did not make headway, owing to the quicksand, it was said, and gave up.  Twenty years later, Sam Harris, Jim Harris and Tom Cornish, entered into a contract to push a Level through, and succeeded in thirling the old Douglas slope a few feet  above the No. 1. Level.

A walk around a a few calls at the Indian Camps gave a little insight into the Native character and mode of life.  The men were poorly clad, dirty and languid.  With few exceptions their covering was a shirt and a Blanket wrapped around the body -- feet and head bare.  Women nursing infants whose heads were being flattened or elongated, by compression between two strips of board bound together with cords -- cords made, by the way, from cedar bark.  Most of the men were excessively slothful, and abhorred work of fatigue of any kind.  At times they were inclined to be rebellious, considering King George men as invaders of the prescriptive territorial rights.  They subsisted mainly on what they could procure by hunting and fishing, and on berries which grew plentifully, and which were preserved by drying -- a process the Indians seemed to well understand.  Game was abundant, and obtainable with much search.

 Coal was conveyed in canoes for shipment -- whether to a Man 'o War, a San Francisco freighter, or a coaster --thrown into a lighter made fast alongside a vessel, thence toisted or shovelled on board.  In this work of conveyance, the Indian women, as well as the men were engaged -- the former, as a rule, earning the most wages, or goods.  Payment was made at the Hudson's Bay Company's store, in Blankets, Beads, Shirts and other articles.  The condition of the Indians today, is materially changed -- is greatly improved.  Many of them are industrious, and steadily occupied.  Some have a knowledge of Agriculture, and are inclined to lead a pastoral life, while others worked about the mines.  Thanks to the Missionary teachers who have faithfully labored among them, the younger generation are copying many good examples of their more highly civilized brethren.

The one Road from town -- excepting trails to the Mines and Sawmill -- led to the "big Swamp".  Turning along what is now called Comox Road, passing by the old Cemetery, on beyond where Mr. John Teague lived, came to an abrupt termination at the edge of the Swamp -- did not branch either right or left.  The road was cut out as a way of getting to the Stables.  Hay made from wild grass which grew in heavy crops.  The Hay was hauled on a Sledge by Oxen -- no wagon builders about; neither Andrew & Donaldson nor McCurrach & Wilkinson had then commenced business.  The Oxen hauled timber for buldings and for general mining purposes, and, with an Indian driver did much good work.  There was a thick undergrowth in the woods in those days.  Bush fires of any extent were of rare occurence.  On the road side, about where Machleary Street intersects the Comox Road, in the clearest spot thereabout, the late Edward Walker had a small garden, which, being shaded all around by good-sized trees, was of little use to him.

While strolling in this direction on a pleasant, still, afternoon, the rushing of the waters of the Millstream, only would vary a feeling of silent solitude.  The lonely magnificence of the scenery in the Millstream valley, its mossy glades, rivulets and Water Falls, who could fail to admire them?  And then, when the banks were robed with maples in full leaf, and Dog Wood in all its floral beauty, what lovely spots were found for the good old-fashioned Pic-nic, which the early residents well knew how to arrange and enjoy.

A canoe trip -- repeated trips -- to Nanaimo River, across the Harbour outside Douglas and Newcastle Islands, to Departure Bay, scrutinizing en route the rifts, caves and caverns in the cliffs, the strange romantic grandeur and remarkable appearance of the water-worn rocks -- which looked like works of art produced by the chisel -- disclosed wonderful surprises that are still vividly remembered.  Sitting down at the site of an old Indian Village near where Mrs. Christie now resides, gazing across the Straits of Georgia, and around the Bay, resting in a mute incommunicable luxury of though, one could drink in a Panorama of the fairest, the most enchanting pictures of Nature's painting -- pictures in which this whole Nanaimo region abounds.  There were several totam poles, rather elaborately carved, standing at this deserted village, which had belonged to a branch of the S'nenymos tribe that had quitted the place many years before.

On Jesse Island, under a bluff on the Northern side there was an ancient Indian Necropolis.  Dozens of boxes were piled, one above another, moldering with age, containing the remains of Natives, there deposited.


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