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In
the north-eastern part of the State, is bounded north by Lewis
County, east by the Mississippi River, which separates it from
Illinois, south by Ralls and Monroe, and west by Shelby county,
and contains 280,509 acres.
POPULATION
in 1830, 4,837; in 1840, 9,623; in 1850, 12,230; in 1860, 18,838;
in 1870, 23,780, of whom 20,187 were white and 3.593 were colored;
12, 282 male and 11,498 female; 21,164 native (12,353 born in
Missouri) and 2,616 foreign.
HISTORY.--Previous
to 1800 a tract of land lying upon the Bay de Charles, 3 miles
above the present site of Hannibal, was granted to Manturi Bouvet,
a trapper and fur trader. Some Canadian French join him here, and
a little settlement sprung up with which the Indians carried on a
lively trade, and on a fall or spring day a hundred bark canoes,
loaded with furs and skins, might have been seen moored in the
bay. Bouvet grew rich, and it was rumored that he possessed a
barrel of gold which he kept buried near his house, and when a few
years later his hut was burned and all trace of him was lost, many
supposed that he had been murdered, while others believed that
fearing that he would be treacherously dealt with, he fired his
cabin himself while deep sleep was upon the little settlement, and
taking his gold in a canoe, made his way to New Orleans. The ruins
of the stone chimney are still to be seen, and also numerous
cavities close by, made by parties digging for his gold. The grant
was sold by the public administrator before the church door while
the people were at service, and Charles de Gratiot became the
purchaser. The deed made out in his name is recorded at St. Louis.
Settlements were made South River Valley near Palmyra in 1814, at
Taylor's Mills in 1816, at Palmyra in 1818, and at Hannibal in
1819 by emigrants from Kentucky, Virginia, and North Carolina. The
first families that cut their way through the forests were those
of Grafford, Moss, McKay, Haywood, Durkee, and Foreman in 1814.
These settlers were encouraged by the arrival in 1816 of the
families of Bush, Turner, Bates, and Dulany. In 1817 came Feagan,
Masterson, Lyle, Palmer, gash, Longmire, Parish, Nesbit,
Vallandingham, Kethley and Culbertson. In 1818, Calvert,
Spaulding, Donley, Young, Mathews, Willis, Barton, Lane,
Shropshire, Richey, Ray, and White arrived--a hardy stock of
immigrants. These were followed in 1819 by Armstrong, Walker,
Rice, Lake, (the wife of Burgess Lake is now living in her eight
fifth year, ) McFall, Frye and Taylor. In 1820 came McFarland,
Dunn, Lear, Gupton, Fort and Glasscock, who are still living, and
vividly recount the story of their early dangers and hardships.
Hawkins Smith erected the first mill on South River, and the
settlers came forty miles to mill, remaining one or two days for
their grist. Palmyra afterwards became a great trading point for
the Indians. The first difficulty between them and the whites
occurred in 1817, when an Indian shot a white man and a few weeks
later the white man killed the Indian. He was taken as a prisoner
to St. Louis in a canoe.
The
section of country just about Palmyra settled tip quite rapidly,
the soil being of the finest quality and springs abounding. In the
early days, the first Sunday after the arrival of a new settler
the entire neighborhood called upon him, and carried him a piece
of venison or some present of game, counted his negroes, (his
influence was in proportion to the number of these,) and made
arrangements to help him build his house. A log-rolling day was
appointed, and with hearty good will a cabin was soon erected. The
Sacs and Foxes hunted over this entire region, and the site of
Palmyra was the council ground of these tribes long before the
whites came into the country. After it was settled it was a
favorite trading point with them, and their distinguished chiefs,
Keokuk and Black Hawk, were frequently here. The venerable Presley
Carr Lane, one of the few pioneers who yet remain (1874), says:
"I well remember seeing, soon after the first settlement of
Palmyra, the long file of Indians coming into the village, the men
in advance, carrying nothing but bows and arrows, while the squaws
brought up the rear, each one with a bark sack containing about 2
bushels of pecans, on her back "
These
pecans grew in the Mississippi Bottom, cast of Palmyra and north
of Hannibal, but the trees have all been destroyed.
In
these early days, every family raised from to 50 to 100
pounds of cotton for home use, and the picking of this was turned
into a merrymaking. The evening was the time selected, and the
young people collected about the great log fire, when the cotton
was drying, frolic and work going hand in hand. It does not
require a vivid imagination to suggest that perhaps more than one
love story was told, while the busy fingers separated the seed
from the cotton. After it was picked, the women spun and wove it,
and then fashioned it into garments.
Marion
was taken from Ralls, and its boundaries defined, December
14th,1822; organized December 23d, 1826, and the first court was
held March 26th, 1827, at the house of Richard Brewer; Elijah
Stapp, James J. Mahan, Wm. J. McElroy and John Longmire.
justices.. Joshua Gentry, sheriff, and Theodore Jones, clerk. The
court adjourned for dinner, and re-assembled in the house of
Abraham K. Frye, when Daniel Hendricks presented his commission
from teh Governor, and took his seat as one of the justices. The
settlement of Marion was greatly increased from 1830 to 1835, by
efforts made in Philadelphia, Cincinnati and Pittsburg by Mr. Wm.
Muldrow. About 3oo immigrants came into the county through his
efforts, and a town called Marion City was laid off 6 miles east
of Palmyra in 1834, but in the great freshet of 1844, it was
entirely washed away. . Marion College, and the preparatory
schools at East and West Ely (manual labor schools) , were
established,
and the services of such men as Ezra S. Ely, D.D., Dr. D. Nelson,
Rev. Marks, D.D., Profs. McKee, Potts, Goodrich, Hays, Roach and
Blatchford were secured. These schools flourished for 10 years,
and were then
abandoned.
This
county furnished troops for the Black Hawk War in 1832; for the
Florida War in 1837 ; for the Mormon War in 1838; for the Mexican
War in 1846; and for the Civil War in 1861. Marion County has been
the residence of a number of distinguished men : 5 congressmen, 5
State senators, also Bishop Marvin Nelson, the author of a work on
Infidelity, Dr. Hobson, Uriel Wright, Judge Dryden, Samuel Glover
and Mark Twain (Samuel Clemens).
PHYSICAL
FEATURES.-Probably two-thirds of the surface is undulating
prairie; the woodland is thin along the margins of the streams,
extending here and there into the prairies, and embraces hickory,
oak, black walnut, sugar-maple, ash, sassafras, haw, elm,
honey-locust, etc. The county is drained by North and South Fabius,
Troublesome, Saline and Grassy Creeks, North and South Rivers, and
many smaller streams. 'I'here are also many fine springs of pure
water, besides several chalybeate and sulphur springs. The soil in
the bottoms is very fertile, and oil the prairie is underlaid by a
silicious marl, which contains all the elements necessary to
render it exceedingly fertile. North and east of Palmyra are
considerable bodies of land which sustain a heavy growth
of American elm. The soil of these elm lands is second to none ill
the State in point of fertility.
Hannibal
Cave, situated 1 mile below, the city of Hannibal and about a
quarter of a mile from the Mississippi River, is approached
through a broad ravine hemmed in by lofty ridges which are at
right angles with the river. The antechamber is about 8 feet high
and 15 feet long; this descends into the Narrows, thence through
Grand Avenue to a spacious hall called Washington Avenue through
which the Altar Chamber is reached, where crystal quartz rock,
carbonate of lime and sulphate of magnesia abound ; and
stalactites and stalagmites, continually forming by limestone
percolations, are everywhere seen. The larger portion of the
rock formations of the cave are of the kind styled
"lithographic stone." By crawling in the Bat Avenue
Chamber stealthily, the bats may be seen hanging from the ceiling
in clusters like a swarm of bees. A few years ago a king bat was
caught in this chamber by Wm J. Marsh, which measured 15 inches
from tip to tip. Washington Avenue, over 16 feet high, with long
corridors of stalactites and stalagmites, is the largest and most
spacious, of all the divisions of the cave. At one place in it is
a spring of living water, and at another in a deep pool are found
the wonderful eyeless fish. Nitre also abounds here in the crude
state, and saltpetre was manufactured here thirty years ago.
Another very interesting department is the Devil's Hall. This is
large, wide and spacious, with horizontal ceiling, and smooth,
level floor. In the rear of this chamber, is the Alligator Rock, a
stone bearing a, wonderful resemblance to that animal, Beyond this
is the Elephant's Head, at the confluence of two avenues that lead
to regions far beyond. Here also are seen two natural wells, which
are circular in shape and filled with limpid water. Then comes the
Table Rock, which, is elevated twenty feet above the head, with
regular steps to ascend on one and descend on the opposite side,
down to the western terminus of the cave. A visit will amply repay
the day's time spent in its exploration. This cavern
was the rendezvous of French Canadians a hundred years ago, and
for the Indians long prior to that time. In 1840, Dr. Joseph
McDowell, of St. Louis, purchased it with the intention of using
it as a grand museum. Anatomical and mineralogical specimens were
brought and assigned a place in the cave, and a sarcophagus was
cut and the remains of a child were deposited in the Altar
Chamber.
Murphy's Cave, in Ides,Hill near the center of Hannibal,
was discovered in 1872, by some workmen who were digging for
fire-clay, and is similar to Hannibal Cave.
Ure's
Cave is in the rear of the same hill, but is not so extensive
as the two just mentioned.
Lover's
Leap, a promontory 300 feet above the Mississippi River, is in
South Hannibal, and commands a fine view of the city and
surrounding country.
THE
AGRICULTURAL PRODUCTIONS are wheat, corn, oats, hay and fruit. In
the vicinity of Hannibal there are several fine vineyards, and
grapes are grown to some extent in every part of the county.
Stock-raising, especially of thoroughbreds, is an important
industry.
THE
MINERAL RESOURCES consist of coal clay, limestone and freestone.
MANUFACTURING
INTERESTS.-Flour, lumber, railroad cars, lime and blank books are
all manufactured to some extent, and three extensive potteries are
now in operation in the county.
WEALTH.-Valuation
of the county per census of 1870, $15,750,000.
Note:
Assessed valuation in 1873, $9,716,967. Bonded debt, $80,000.
Mason township has a railroad debt of $200,000 and Liberty
township, $85,000. The bonded of Hannibal is $240,000. The
floating debt, $70,000.
RAILROADS.-There
are 80 miles of railroad in operation, and about, 3 miles in
process of construction. The Hannibal and St. Joseph R. R. extends
from Hannibal north-west to Palmyra, and from Quincy southwest to
the same point, thence south-west, returning to pass through the
extreme south-western part of the county. The Missouri, Kansas
& Texas R. R., from Hannibal, follows the southern line of the
county for about 12 Miles.
The
Toledo. Wabash & Western R. R. has about 1 mile of road above
Hannibal. The Quincy, Alton & St. Louis R. R., furnishes a
convenient route to Quincy and St. Louis via Hannibal and Fall
Creek junction R. R. The Keokuk & St. Louis R. R. passes
through the county along the Mississippi River, and is now
completed and cars are running to Hannibal, a distance of 22
miles. The 3 miles remaining will soon be completed. The St.
Louis, Hannibal & Keokuk R. R. is completed from Hannibal
south-westwardly to the southern line of Ralls County, and when
completed will connect with the St. L., K. C. & N. R. W.,
probably at Dardenne, thus furnishing another direct route to St.
Louis. The Mississippi Valley & Western R. R. is completed to
Hannibal, and cars are now running.
THE
EXPORTS are wheat, beef, pork and fruits.
EDUCATIONAL
INTERESTS.-There is a growing feeling in favor of public schools,
and nearly every sub-district is supplied with a comfortable
school-house. Excellent teachers are employed, and the schools
generally are of a high grade, especially in Hannibal and Palmyra,
where very superior educational advantages are found.
Barkley,
named for its first settler, Levi Barkley, a station on the H.
& St. J. R. R., 5 miles s. of Palmyra and 10 miles n. w. from
Hannibal, is an important shipping point for stock and fruit.
Bear
Creek, on the H. &, St. J. R. R., 5 miles w. of Hannibal, has
1 patent lime kiln, 1 cooper shop, 1 stone crusher and 1 lime
quarry which s extensively worked.
Benbow,
(formerly Midway,) 18 miles n. w. of Palmyra, has 1 public
school, 2 churches--Methodist and Presbyterian, 2 stores and 1
wagon shop.
Caldwell.-See
Woodland.
Ely,
on the H. & St. J. R. R., 9 miles s. w. of Palmyra.
Emerson,
13 miles w. n. w. of Palmyra, was settled at an early day by
Messrs. True, Jones, McPike and Emerson. It was laid off Jan.
20th, 1837, and called Houston, but in 1859 the name was changed
to Emerson. it has 1 public ,school, 3 churches-Methodist, Baptist
and Christian, and 4 stores and several shops.
Hannibal,
in the southeastern corner of the county, the terminus of the H.
& St. J. R. R., and the M., K. & T. R. R., and on the K.
& H. R. R. is situated on the west bank of the Mississippi
River, which is bridged at this point, thus making Hannibal the
western terminus of the T., W. & W., and F.C. Branch of Q., A.
& St. L. R. R'ds. It is also the northern terminus of the M.,
K. & T. R. R., and present terminus of the M., V. & W. R.
R., and of the St. L., H. & K. R. R., which is in operation
from. Frankford to Hannibal, a distance of 18 miles. The city is
built between Holliday's Hill on the north, and Lover's Leap on
the south, and is divided by Bear Creek and Ide's Hill into North
Hannibal and South Hannibal. It extends two miles back from. the
river, over the valley of the creek and tip on the hillsides,
making a beautiful and picturesque city. In early times it was
known as Staveley's Landing. Lots were sold here to settlers in
1817, and in 1819 the town was regularly laid off by Thos. Bird,
on a New Madrid claim. The first keel boat was built by Moses D.
Bates & Bro., and in 18 1 7 the first named built the first
log cabin. The oldest portion of the town is near the ferry
landing; after this Palmyra Avenue was settled and then Main
Street. For years after its settlement, Indian wigwams dotted the
hills about it, but they decreased in number as white settlers
came in. In the fall of 1828, the families of Giles Thompson,
Joseph Brashear, Amos Gridley, Zachariah G. Draper, Reuben Turner,
Theophilus Stone and Joshua Mitchell constituted the inhabitants
of Hannibal. Mr. Mitchell, now (1874) 70 years old, says when he
arrived, the present site of' Hannibal was a forest of oak, walnut
and hackberry, with a derise underbrush of hazel and that he rode
from St. Louis on horseback, finding but three settlers between
New London and Hannibal-Stephen Dodd, Stark Simms -and James
Mills. In 1829, Mr. Mitchell built the first in on the first brick
frame house of the town, and in 1823 Joseph Hamilton the first
brick house on the Levee, between Bird and Hill. Joab Smith and
Mr. Johnson, of St. Louis, in 1833, built the first steam
saw-mill, on the corner of Main and Broadway, now occupied by Mr.
J. Settle's clothing Store. In 1826, Mr. John Fry and family
settled in the town, followed bv Mr. Robert Buchanan in 1832.
The
commerce. of' the Upper Mississippi, until 1829, was carried on by
keel boats, manned chiefly by French Canadians; ten to twelve days
were required to make the trip from St. Louis to Hannibal. In 1833
the inhabitants of the town numbered 35, and 1 steamboat arrived
and departed per week.
The
families then residing there, in addition to those already
mentioned, were as follows: Samuel Stone, Joseph Craig, Samuel
Bowen, Abraham Curts, Abner Nash, Isaac Holt, A. McGinnis, John L.
Lacy, James Clark, John Nelson and James Conroy. In 1837 Thos. E.
Brittingham arrived from Maryland, and in 1839 he built his
present brick residence. The same year Dr. B. T. Norton, J. Pierce
and. William McDaniel arrived-the latter in a snow storm, and was
only able to find accommodation for himself and family in an
outhouse, and it was impossible for him to find supplies for man
or beast. Bear Creek at that time passed in a serpentine course
through what is now the chief business part of the town; South
Hannibal was a dense forest, and West Hannibal a favorite hunting
ground.
At
quite an early day Dr. Nelson preached to the people, and the
first church (Methodist)- was organized in 1835 by George W.
Bewley. In 1837 Dr. Marks, now (1874) of Webster Groves, organized
the first Presbyterian church. In 1847 a charter was obtained for
the H. & St. R. R,, and this secured the future prosperity of
the city, and in 1845 the Keokuk & St. Louis Packet Co.-was
organized, which added much to the business of Hannibal. From 1825
to 1835 New London, Palmyra, Hannibal, Scipio, Marion City and
Quincy were the great cities of the West, and much jealousy
existed between them. In 1825 New London and Palmyra were rivals
in 1837 Palmyra and Marion City; in 1829 Hannibal and Scipio, and
finally a spirited rivalry between Palmyra and Hannibal. The last
came off victorious in the succeeding decade, and was incorporated
as a city in 1839. The oldest settlers now living are Thos. E.
Brittingham, Joshua Mitchell, John Fry, Robert Buchanan,
Theophilus Stone, Abraham Curts and John L. Lacy. The corporate
limits embrace about 3,ooo acres of land, and the business of the
city may, be inferred from the following figures. There were sold
from this place and carried over the various railroad lines
centering here, nearly 100,000,000 feet of lumber, 100,000 barrels
of lime and 150,000 barrels of flour, manufactured here; and many
thousand pounds of tobacco. There were slaughtered here in 1873,
16,000 hogs and several thousand cattle. The city contains about
350 stores and business houses, 2 extensive car shops, which have
turned out some fine palace cars, 1 large foundry and many smaller
manufactories. A fine union depot is soon to be erected; also a
grand hotel and a capacious grain elevator. There are 2
newspapers-the Courier, published by the Winchell &
Ebert Printing Company, and the Clipper, by Rich &
Newberry, 6 public schools and 1 high school-3,229 children of
school age with a regular attendance of 1,000 ($25,ooo are
expended annually for school purposes), 11 churches-Baptist,
membership 265 ; Presbyterian, 275 ; Congregational, 350;
Episcopal, 2oo; Lutheran, 75 ; Baptist 150; Methodist (col.), 26o;
M. E. Ch. South, 250; M- E- Church, 300; Catholic, 500 adult
members; Arch Street Methodist, 100 ; Christian Church, 225. The
Union Stock Yards are new, admirably arranged, and easy of access.
The
North Missouri Fair Grounds are near the city, and have been
beautifully laid off at an expense of $6o,ooo. Hannibal now has a
population of 12,575, and with the natural advantages it
possesses, together with the intelligence and enterprise which
characterize the people, its past vigorous growth is but a promise
of greater prosperity in the future,
The
Hannibal bridge, erected in 1870 and 1871, at a cost of $385,000
is a combined railroad and highway bridge over teh Mississippi,
and the trains of the C., B. & Q. R. R., and T., W. & W.
R. R. pass over this bridge and through the tunnel, which is cut
through Halliday's Hill, 1 mile above the city, and is 302 feet
long, 20 feet high, and 18 feet wide.
HANNIBAL
COLLEGE, founded under the auspices of a few patrons of learning,
chief among whom were R. F. Lakenan, J. L. RoBards, J. W. Brady,
John Ure, J. H. McVeigh and Wm. Dresher, was open in the fall of
1869, since which time 650 students have received instruction in
the higher collegiate branches. The charter provides that the
Bible shall be taught daily to all who receive instruction at the
institution. Its endowment at present consists of 35 acres of land
lying within the corporate limits of the city, valued at $10,000,
and donated by R. F. Lakenan. This college, under the able
management of its President, Rev. Prof. Leo Baier, is made
self-supporting.
ACADEMY
OF ST.. JOSEPH.-In 1864, the Catholic church of Hannibal, with
funds raised by subscription, purchased the building and grounds
of the Hannibal Institute (an unsuccessful private school) and
deeded the property to the Sisters of St. Joseph of Carondelet,
who the next year opened a parochial school, which has grown into
a flourishing Academy. Extensive improvements have been made, and
more ground added, till the property is valued at $15,000 to
$30,000. They can accommodate 120 boarders and 300 pupils.
Hester,
8 miles w. s. w. of Quincy, and 9 miles n. of Palmyra, is a new
town in the midst of a well timbered and fine agricultural
district.
Naomi,
16 miles n. w. of Palmyra on Troublesome Creek, has been recently
laid out, and is surrounded by well-cultivated farms.
Nelsonville,
a P. 0. 25 miles w. n. w. of Palmyra, is near the northwest corner
of the county.
New
Market, 12 miles w. of
Palmyra, has 1 store, 1 wagon shop,and 1 hotel. This place was
laid out November 24th, 1836, by Messrs. Hawkins and Burch.
North
River, a P. O. situated
in the forks of North River, 9 miles W. s. w. of Palmyra, is a
comparatively new town. This section of country was known as
"Turkey Shin," because wild turkeys abounded, and
regular hunting excursions were made thither by the early
inhabitants.
North
River Station, a station
on the 11. & St. J. R. R., is 9 miles from Quincy and 5 miles
n. n. e. of Palmyra.
PALMYRA,
the county seat, on the H. & St. J. R. R., 14 miles from
Hannibal, and 14 from west Quincy, is in the midst of the "
Elm Lands" whose marvelous beauty and fertility became early
in the settlement of Missouri, an attraction to those seeking
homes in the "Far West." Great inroads have been made
upon those elm forests, and now following almost any of the roads
leading from the city, are seen farm after farm of golden grain,
flowery fields of clover, and magnificent orchards of fruit, which
extend far back into the country. There are 7 never-failing
springs in and around the city, which form the stream that runs
through the heart of Palmyra, and empties into North River.
The largest, known as the "town spring," is remembered
by many a weary traveler, and affords abundant water for the
entire city. Hugh White was the original owner of the site, and
March 24th, 1819, he conveyed it to Samuel K. Caldwell and Obadiah
Dickerson, who afterwards sold an interest in it to Joel Shaw and
John McCune and the location of each gentleman's portion was
decided by lot. The city is regularly laid out and is
substantially arid tastefully built, having about 30 stores and
numerous shops, 2 flouring-mill's, 2 breweries, 1 brick yard, 2
pork packing houses, 2 banks, 2 public and 2 private schools, and
Ingleside Academy, under the patronage of the Baptist
denomination, Mrs. P. A. Baird principal, 11 churches-M. E. Ch.,
M. E. Ch. South, Reformed, Presbyterian, Episcopal, Lutheran,
Catholic, 0. S. Presbyterian, also colored Baptist and Methodist,
2 newspapers, The Spectator, published by Jacob Losey, and the New
Era, by Leflet & Gordon. Population about 3,000- During the
late Civil War a skirmish occurred at Palmyra between Col.
Porter's forces (Confederate) and about 8o Federal troops under
Capt. D. Duback, in which 1 citizen fell and others were wounded.
Philadelphia,
12 miles w. of Palmyra, was laid out by Wm. Muldrow, Dec. 19th,
1835. It has 1 Union church, 1 public school, 3 stores and several
shops.
Sharpsburg,
5 miles n. w. of Monroe City and 22 miles s. w. of Palmyra, is a
small village which was settled at an early day.
Springdale,
on the M., K. & T. R. R. 8 miles w. of Hannibal, is a newly
laid off town in the center of a fine country.
Taylor,
On the M, P. R. R- 5 miles w- Of West Quincy and 6 miles n. of
Palmyra, is a small town laid off and chiefly owned by Capt. Jno.
Taylor, who settled here in 182o.
Warren,
15 miles w. s. w. of Palmyra, was laid off in I844 by Messrs.
McElroy and Edelin. It is surrounded by a good farming country,
and contains 1 church, 1 public school, 1 store and several shops.
West
Ely,: 10 miles s. of
Palmyra, has 2 stores, several shops, 2 public schools and 2
churches-Lutheran and Presbyterian.
West
Quincy, on the H. &
St. J. R. R. has 1 public school, 1 store, 1 lumber yard, 1
planing mill and 1 union depot.
Wither's-
Mills, on the H. &
St. J. R. R. 7 1/2 miles from Hannibal and the same distance from
Palmyra, has 1 school and 1 Baptist church.
Woodland,
(Caldwell,) on the H.
& St. J. R. R. 5 miles s. w. of Palmyra, has 1 store, 1
schoolhouse, and a Baptist church. This village is surrounded by a
rich agricultural country. |