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Our first route takes us from Leiden’s Central Station into town, along the Stationsweg.

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About a block into town, a bridge over the 17th-century town moat has the windmill museum “De Valk” on the left,

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The entrance to the National Museum of Ethnography. The world-famous Indonesian collection is but one of many.

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Continuing into town, on the right is the small entrance to one of Leiden’s three dozen almshouses, the St. Salvatorshof.

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The St. Salvatorshof was founded in 1628 to provide a home for Catholic old people.

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At the end of the former Cattle Market (Beestenmarkt), the street comes to a point at a bridge. Look back. The ugly tall office building reminds you of where to find your way back to the station.

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Boats moored here give canal tours. Cross the bridge, turn right and cross the next bridge (over the Rhine River), then right again along the water. (photo © G.Hahn)

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We walk along the south side of the river, named the Gallows Water (Galgewater). Criminals were executed here, before town expansion in 1612. An arched entryway dated 1615 once led to stables.

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The City Timber Wharf (Stadstimmerwerf), built in 1612, was a depot for imported wood used to construct the houses in an early 17th-century town expansion.

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The reconstructed 17th-century bridge leads to a windmill named “Molen De Put.” This was built re-using parts of an ancient mill frame. A similar mill stood here in the 17th century.

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One of two remaining town gates, the Morspoort (1668) closes one main street of the newly constructed 17th-century neighborhood. Two crossed red keys on a silver shield are Leiden’s coat-of-arms.

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Gables of houses nearly 400 years old line the Morsstraat.

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The Morspoort, from the other side of the town moat.

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Returning over the footbridge, we see medieval houses rise along the south bank of the river. Next to them is an unusually successful attempt at modern design that does not clash with historic surroundings.

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A small square at the foot of the bridge opens opposite the birthplace of Rembrandt van Rijn, marked by a stone set into the wall of modern apartments. Rembrandt’s father’s windmill stood here.

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The Rembrandt park is a favorite of local dogs and picknickers in spring. Ducks nest nearby.

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A duck and more ducklings.

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Several old-timer boats are moored along the Galgewater. In spring one sees boatlings.

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The park in winter.

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Looking across the Rijn (Rhine) River at dusk.

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A former maritime academy named after the Dutch Prins Hendrik overlooks the park.

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Prins Hendrik’s portrait is among the better public statues in Leiden.

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Leaving the park at the far corner, we cross a bridge over the town moat.

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Along the banks of the town moat, a Rembrandt bust welcomes visitors. We return along the Noordeinde, a street with many moderately priced restaurants.

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Several Noordeinde houses date from the 17th century.

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Near the far end of the street, a mid-17th century mansion is now student housing.

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Halfway along the Noordeinde, the Old Pig Market (Oude Varkens Markt) takes us south past the Loridans Almshouse, an enclosed quadrangle. Now student housing, it is not open to public visits.

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At the end of the street, the St. George’s Gate (1645) once gave entry to the militia target practice ranges. The Groenhazegracht (canal) is said to be named after a 15th-century bordello owner.

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The Walloon Theological College trained ministers for the French refugee churches of the 17th century.

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At the corner, the Thysius Library occupies a building specially built in 1654/5 to house the books still shelved there. Leiden’s city architect Aernt van ‘s Gravezande designed this as well as the St. George’s Gate.

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A bronze marker indicates where the philosopher René Descartes lived. Leiden University already had a Dutch philosopher on staff, so did not hire Descartes.

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Next door, the 18th-century Siebold House exhibits Japanese art. In 1586, Pilgrim William Brewster stayed here while visiting Leiden with English diplomats. Return past the Thysius Library. .

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The Rapenburg Canal is lined here with mid-17th century houses. Some have stepped gables, others, classical pediments.

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In the Doelensteeg (alley), the entrance to the Eva van Hoogeveen Almshouse is decorated with her family’s coats-of-arms, no longer painted in proper colors.

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The almshouse garden.

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Crossing a little canal, we notice 17th-century houses face those of the 20th century, built on the old target range in the midst of new university buildings.

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Turn left to walk around the Lipsius Building, containing the univesity’s cafeteria, lecture halls, theater, and art gallery.

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The rustic Paterbrug (priest’s bridge) crosses the town moat towards the University Library.

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The dome of the library. Leiden’s university library remains world-renowned, although funding cuts and reorganization of research have reduced the significance of several faculties, such as history and theology.

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The Paterbrug takes us back to the historic town center. The tower of the medieval University Building rises beyond the Botanical Gardens.

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The Patersteeg (alley) takes us straight towards the garden of a 16th-century house beside the Botanical Gardens. We jog left to return through the Doelensteeg to the Rapenburg.

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Back on the Rapenburg, we pass several mansions given elaborately decorated façades in the 18th century.

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The most impressive rococo door in Leiden

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Across the Rapenburg Canal, the mid-17th-century mansion of the Van Leyden family has carved festoons of flowers, fruit, and exotic seashells.

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The University Building (Academie Gebouw) is Leiden University’s oldest. The university’s main auditorium and senate chamber occupy a former convent founded ca. 1430.

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To the right of the University Building is the arched entrance to the Botanical Gardens, a magnificent collection of plants from around the world.

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Leiden’s botanical gardens have a special section on Japanese flora, including plants imported in the early 19th century by Philipp von Siebold.

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The Hortus Clusianus is a reconstruction of the original university garden laid out in the 16th century. Tulips from Turkey were first grown here in Holland.

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The Hortus Clusianus is overlooked by a house from ca. 1600. Leaving the Hortus Clusianus, turn right and right again, to follow the Nonnensteeg to a bridge over the Rapenburg.

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Across the bridge from the University Building is a popular student café and pub, Barerra. This appeared in the film Soldier of Orange (Soldaat van Oranje), about WWII resistance by Leiden students.