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The Irish Linen Industry


DOWN LINEN
Linen   Growers
Linen History

 

Belfast was a great centre of spinning, but not of weaving ; it was the great emporium of the linen trade of Ireland, and the centre to which the linens, not only of the Northern Ireland counties, but also of the linen-weaving districts of the west of Ireland, were sent for sale. Large quantities of linen were directly exported from Belfast to foreign countries ; but the greater quantity was sent through Liverpool. Belfast was also the great linen yarn market of Ireland, where the principal manufacturers obtained their supply of either Scotch, English, Irish, or foreign yarn. The amount of the value of the hand-spun yarn sold per annum in Belfast was stated to be £100,000. Extensive mills, to the number of fifteen in the town, besides four others in the neighbourhood for the spinning of linen yarn, were established ; and the yarn they produced was equal in quality to any made in the United Kingdom. One-fourth of the flax for their consumption was imported. There were at the same time about six or eight hundred hand-loom weavers in Belfast. Hand-loom weaving factories had recently been introduced and were rapidly extending. The weavers in these factories were principally employed on  canvas, sacking, damasks and coarse linens. The weavers greatly objected to the introduction of the factory system, as it put them too much in the power of their employers, and prevented them from the free exercise of their labour. The advantages, however, of the factories were so great and so obvious as to overrule all objections. The linen industry was widely spread throughout the counties of Down and Armagh. The old custom of a linen weaver owning a patch of land and supplementing his earnings by means of farming was gradually dying out. This change, while undoubtedly beneficial to the agriculture of the  northern counties, operated to make the weavers absolutely dependent on the manufacture for a living. In some remote parts of County Down the old system still prevailed, and where it did, the wages paid for weaving were very low. Banbridge was the principal seat of the manufacture in the north of Ireland. It was in this neighbourhood that some of the first manufacturers who invested large capital in the linen trade established themselves, and here the great experiment of placing the linen trade of Ireland on a new foundation was tried. The great subdivision of the capital invested in the linen trade, the want of a proper division of labour being applied to it, and a direct market for the disposal of the produce year by year, rendered it more apparent that it could  be no longer continued on its former system. On the repeal of the protecting duties, and the introduction of mill-spun yarn into England and Scotland, it became evident to the capitalists in the north of Ireland either that the linen trade should be placed on a new foundation, and conducted on the improved principles that were being applied to its manufacture in the other portions of the United Kingdom, or that Ireland should lose its linen trade altogether. The result was that the linen manufacture was placed on a new foundation, and men of extensive capital and skill became engaged in it. In the neighbourhood of Lurgan, Tandragee, and Dungannon much linen continued to be manufactured on the old system, which however was gradually being superseded from the necessities of the case. The independent weavers found a difficulty in obtaining sufficiently small quantities of machine- spun yarn, and hand-spun yarn was no longer of any use. Outside the counties of Down and Armagh the linen manufacture was rapidly disappearing. " From Dungannon," says Mr. Otway, " I proceeded to Strabane, at one period the great yarn market of the counties of Tyrone, Donegal, parts of Armagh, Deny, and Down, and the place to which the yarn produced in Fermanagh, Cavan, Monaghan, Leitrim, and Sligo was sent for sale. The trade is almost at an end, the introduction of mill-spun yarn having limited the market  and the profit of hand-spun yarn." In the County Donegal weaving was principally confined to those who wove for the immediate wants of the farmers, or for sale in the county fairs and markets. These weavers had full employment only from the first of May to the first of January in each year, with the omission of a month at harvest time, and for the remainder of the year only had halftime time employment. The continuance of the old system of double occupations was thus rendered a necessity.  In County Sligo Mr. Otway found " merely the traces of a linen manufacture ; the linen hall of considerable extent was hired out as a general warehouse, and hardly a single web presented for sale. On what were the linen market days a few spinners still hawk hand-spun linen through the streets, but both the quality and the quantity of the yarn offered for sale is utterly insignificant." Mr. Otway considered what he saw in Sligo to be " a decided proof of the correctness of the statement that the linen trade in Ireland could not be preserved on the old system on which it was conducted. The old system," he proceeds, "died a natural death, and the new system was not introduced. The small portion of linen now made up for the use of the peasantry continues to exist solely from the want of ready money amongst the people." The linen manufacture in Drogheda had experienced a particularly rapid decay, and the condition of the weavers in 1840 was terrible. About 1,900 persons were still able to obtain occasional employment, but the wages which they could earn were deplorably low. The lowest wages paid in the trade were in Drogheda, where the weavers were in a most distressed condition. The average wage earned during periods of employment, which were very intermittent, was about four shillings a week, and the average number of persons dependent on each weaver was six. The manner in which this wretched income was supplemented so as to provide subsistence for the weaver and his family is thus described by Mr. Otway : " The poor weavers supply themselves with the lowest species of vegetable food, and provide a place of shelter, if shelter it can be called, to live and weave in, so as to keep off actual destitution. The poor weaver collects manure, and is then able to plant potatoes, enough to last from three to four months, on ground obtained gratis from some neighbouring farmer, who is glad to give the \ potato crop for the sake of the corn crop, which the manure will enable him to obtain the next year. Now there is wanting about half an acre more to supply potatoes for the remainder of the year, and this ground is taken in conacre, from some farmer who has manured or rich grass land to let which will give a good crop of potatoes. For this he agrees to pay about £ 4. Thus provision being made for the main food of his family, it devolves on his industry to procure clothing, and to pay the rent of his conacre ground and cabin. The industry of his wife and children, by the fattening of a pig, or in some cases the sale of eggs and poultry, or by begging through the district, enable the family to procure a little milk or ' kitchen ' as it is called. How the weavers who live in the centre of the towns manage it is impossible to imagine.
The cabins that the weavers live and work in are fearful specimens of what habit will enable a human being to endure ; it is impossible that any good description of work could be woven in such sinks of filth ; but the very dirt is their principal means of support. That a corporate town, entrusted with public property for the benefit of its inhabitants, should have permitted such a state of things is to me inexplicable ; I am persuaded that no part of Europe, or I might add, of the world, presents such a spectacle of dwellings for human beings as part of Drogheda." The decline of the linen manufacture in Drogheda was caused by the English and Scotch competition in the manufacture of coarse linens. The fine linen manufacturers were not affected by this competition, but they migrated one by one to Down, Antrim, and Derry, as they found that the manufacture could be more economically and profitably conducted in those counties. The hand-loom weavers, however, did not migrate at the same time, and were left without employment. The introduction of mill-spun yarn administered the final blow to the industry in Drogheda. The condition of the industry in other parts of the south and west was the same as in Sligo and Drogheda. It had generally disappeared, except for the making up of some coarse linen for the peasantry, except in a few isolated districts where the almost total absence of any employment for the great mass of the people had rendered hand-loom labour so cheap as to enable some webs of coarse cloth to be occasionally made up. The quality of the linen produced was deteriorating ; looms were generally in disrepair ; and in some districts the hand was used instead of a fly shuttle. It was Mr. Otway's opinion that it was " only a matter of time until the linen industry was totally extinct.' ' The industry had also almost disappeared in Dublin, Where it was restricted within very narrow limits, and confined to one or two manufacturers, of whom Crosthwaites werethe principal, with the exception of one or two coarse canvas and sail-cloth manufacturers. The rate of wages in Dublin was from eight to twelve shillings a week, and the working day from twelve to fifteen hours. Thus in the early years of the nineteenth century the linen manufacture disappeared from three-fourths of Ireland, but succeeded in developing in the north. The extent of the manufacture, however, even in Ulster, was really not very great when compared with the English and Scotch manufactures, and it derived its importance in the industrial life of the country from the absence of other industries. This is well put in Kane's Industrial Resources of Ireland : " The extent of this manufacture stands in such relief from the usual absence of all manufacturing industry in Ireland that we frequently attach to it a degree of importance and an idea of absolute magnitude that it does not really possess. In reality Ireland is almost as much behind in this as in every other branch of industry. The town of Dundee alone is considered to manufacture as much linen as all Ireland, and the relation which the manufacture of flax bears in the three kingdoms is exactly shown in the following figures, which are extracted from the report of the factory inspector for 1839, since which period no sensible alteration has taken place. " In England there were 169 mills worked by 4,260 horsepower and employing 16,573 persons. " In Scotland there were 183 mills worked by 4,845 horsepower and employing 17,897 persons. " In Ireland there were 40 mills worked by 1,980 horsepower and employing 9,017 persons." The silk industry was completely suspended during the rebellion of 1798, and it did not ever really recover its former prosperity. Undoubtedly the Union, by causing the emigration of a great number of the Irish nobility and gentry to London, seriously diminished the demand for silk goods in Dublin. Still more serious was the competition now beginning to be offered by the English industry, which was rapidly extending in Macclesfield and Manchester. Before 1821 the Irish industry was to some extent protected against British goods by the ten per cent protecting duty, retained by the Act of Union ; but in spite of the duty the British manufacturers were by their increased command of capital able to undersell the Dublin manufacturers even in the Irish market. In 1821 the protecting duties on importation from England expired ; and a few years later foreign silks were allowed to be imported into the United Kingdom. The opening up of steam communication between Great Britain and Ireland still further increased the competition ; and in the panic of 1825 the Irish market was inundated with goods at a price less than the cost of the raw material. "From that date," says Mr. Otway, " the loss of the silk trade was rendered inevitable." " In 1825," we read in the evidence before the Poor Law Commission of 1833, " the removal of the protecting duties took place, and the regulations of the Dublin Society were done away with. At that time the low price of labour in England enabled the English manufacturers to sell their goods at a much less price than they could get them prepared here. . . . Our trade rapidly declined." From the date of the removal of the protecting duties the silk trade gradually sunk out of existence ; it dwindled into a mere court luxury, dependent on the capricious smile of viceregal patronage, or the uncertain support of charity balls. The number of silk weavers remaining in Dublin in 1840 was about 400, and employment was very irregular. The rate of wages per week was higher than in Manchester, but the irregularity of employment was so great that the English weavers earned much more in the year. It has been very generally stated that the downfall of the silk industry in Ireland was hastened by combinations. Otway said : "It cannot be doubted that illegal and dangerous combinations among the workmen have operated most injuriously on the trade, driving many of the most extensive manufacturers out of it, and deterring others from directing their capital and intelligence towards it. If not checked the system will speedily drive away the remaining portion of the trade." It is impossible, however, to help feeling that the combinations were rather the effect than the cause of the decay of the trade.

Edward J. Riordan, George Augustine Thomas O'Brien


 

 


 

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Last Modified: Wednesday, November 05, 2008 08:55:41 Eastern Time, USA.