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Statistical Report by Lieutenant P. Taylor. November 1834
NATURAL STATE
Name and Derivation
In the north eastern extremity of the parish, and about 10 chains from
the shore, a beautifully carina-shaped island named Inishmacsaint
Locality
Its locality, however, is clearly defined, occupying a north western
position in the county of Fermanagh, and situated in the south western
division of the barony of Magheraboy. On the north it is bounded by the
beautifully picturesque Lough NATURAL FEATURES
Hills
For the purpose of clearer illustration, the natural features of the
parish may be subdivided into eastern, central and western portions. The
eastern, extending from the townland of Magheragher to the base of the
mountains, is one continuous succession of beautifully undulating hill
and vale, terminating in the townlands of Largalinny and Lenaghan in
ridges of abruptly elevated cliffs and precipices, and in Bohiviny and
Portnaclogduff by the graduated ascent and commencement of the lofty
range of Black Slee and Shean mountains. The hills of conical or more
generally dome-shaped form, giving name to their localities or
townlands, are of considerable magnitude. Their acclivity, however, is
gradual and admit of cultivation to the summit, composed of precisely
the same materials as the lofty Boho and Shean mountains. It is evident
they formed, anterior to the catastrophe which produced the present
order of things, a part of those majestic mountains, but are now cut off
from and form no connection with that extensive chain.
The central division is composed of a wild, romantic, mountainous,
heathy district composing the townlands of Largalinny, Lenaghan,
Blackslee, Shean, Bolusky, Tiernagher and Drumbag, forming an
irregularly connected range with the Boho mountains. Vast ridges of
impending cliffs and precipices, stretching east and west in parallel
lines, form bold and conspicuous features on the very summit of the
mountains. A magnificent limestone cliff of 864 feet above the level of
the lake, extending from the townland of Shean to Glenalong, preserves
its altitude for the space of several miles and presents from its summit
the most beautiful panoramic view of Lough Erne, its numerous islands
and distant surrounding scenery that can possibly be submitted to the
most impassioned imagination.
Its western portion commences from the townlands of Glen, Drumbad and
Glenalong. The altitude of the mountain by a gradual and uniform
depression descends from this line to the level of the plain below,
formed into irregularly-tabulated surfaces and long, parallel ridges
terminating in extensive bog, and joins the boundary of the county
Donegal Altitude of Hills
Altitudes of the more elevated hills and mountains giving names to the
townlands in the parish of Inishmacsaint: Glenwinny, 447.20 feet above
the level of the sea, Caldrum 414.80 feet, Largalinny 727.60 feet,
Lenaghan 707.80 feet, Bonyhone 410.20 feet, Portnaclogduff 439.90 feet,
Carral 662.40 feet, Blackslee 1,026.30 feet, Shean 1,030.20 feet,
Bolusky 1,063.90 feet, Maho South 1,033.10 feet, Legg 964.90 feet,
Tieragher More 875.10 feet, Drumbad 1,009.10 feet, Glenalong 792.50
feet, Glen 577.20 feet, Killybeg 583.50 feet, Callagheen 404.20, Brolagh
or Aghamuldoony 393.70 feet.
Lakes
An extensive table on the summit of the mountain contains lakes
Menamean, Glenarewen, Navar and Scork. Lough Afad, Menawelkin, Carrick
and Bonyhone occupy less elevated and more easterly situations. Several
small lakes of minor importance are interspersed throughout the
mountains, giving beauty and interest to the surrounding sombre scene.
Lake Glenarewan, 816 feet above the level of the sea and only 10 chains
from the precipice which bounds the northern shore of Lough Erne, is
supplied by its own springs and discharges its superabundant waters
through a subterranean channel in the cliff, capable of being converted
into a valuable water power in its course to Lough Erne.
Lakes Menamean, Nafar and Scork give rise by their junction to the River
Sillees which, descending in an easterly direction through the
mountains, forms a beautiful cataract in the townland of Corral and,
flowing through Lough Carrick and Bonyhone, augmented by tributaries
from Nafad and Menawelkin, meanders through the townlands of Caldrum,
Tonagh and Glenlevin at nearly a dead level; and, flowing through the
town of Derrygonnelly, penetrates the parish of Devenish, augmented in
winter by the accumulations of its mountain tributaries and, ebbing in
summer to an insignificant stream and preserving its serpentine course
still easterly, enters Lough Erne about 3 miles above the town of
Enniskillen. Thus, whilst Sillees pursues its silently serpentine course
easterly, Erne propels in dignified majesty its superabundant volume in
nearly the same parallel, and in quite an opposite, direction.
Numerous streamlets, rising from lakes, marshes and springs in the
mountainous division of the parish, flow south westerly and, uniting in
the town land of Leglehid, form the River Ruagagh which, flowing through
the town of Garrison, enters the north eastern point of Lough Melvin,
enlarging and diminishing its volume by the influence of rain.
Lough Erne, forming the northern boundary of the parish, is navigable by
barges and small craft throughout its whole extent, and presents by the
magnitude of its waters, richly cultivated islands, sublime and
diversified scenery, one of the most beautiful lakes in the world. River
Erne, flowing almost imperceptibly to the west, disgorges the
superabundant waters of its lake over the corrugated falls and romantic
scenery of Belleek and, subdividing the town of Ballyshannon, enters the
bay of Donegal.
Lough Melvin, forming the south western boundary of the parish,
presents, by the bold and lofty scenery of Sheanbrack, a portion of the
Leitrim mountains, another of those very beautiful landscapes which so
frequently embellish and adorn this supremely gifted country. It also is
navigable throughout its whole extent, and still there is not a single
manufactory, or establishment for trade or commerce implanted upon its
banks.
Numerous streamlets, descending from the mountain in the western
division of the parish, converge in their course westerly and discharge
their accumulations on the northern shore of Lough Melvin, but none of
importance or demand further detail. Springs of the purest transparency
and solubrity everywhere abound in the parish, and sulphas and ferri
chalybates are frequently discovered throughout the mountains.
Bogs
In the eastern portion of the parish turbary is scarce, a great
inconvenience and deprivation to the tenantry. In the townlands of
Derrygonnelly, Sandhill, Tonagh and Glenlivin it is in abundance. It
almost covers the central district, but from its remote situation is of
very little value, except to the tenantry located in its glens. The
western division possesses it in vast abundance. In the eastern division
it is free to the tenantry, but none is permitted to be transported for
sale. Large trunks of oak and fir trees are imbedded throughout the
bogs. The perpendicular stumps and roots are frequently observable, but
neither the direction or numbers of the trunks are sufficiently abundant
to ground an opinion on the cause of their prostration. The substratum
is composed of the debris of the rock in the immediate vicinity, a blue,
tenacious, marly clay abounding with very minute shells and distinct
vegetable impressions in the proximity of limestone, and a white marly
clay near the sand; and frequently the bog rests upon the solid,
sandstone rock. Tumuli of sandstone emerge in the centre of the Tonagh
bog and the surrounding substratum appears everywhere composed of the
same formation.
Woods
The vast extent of underwood, together with the remains of native forest
which are still extant in the eastern division of the parish and the
large trunks of oak and fir trees abounding in the bogs, all indicate in
almost recent times a district clothed with timber of the most useful,
ornamental and valuable description. Along the sloping base of the cliff
on the south western shore of Lough Erne the remains of an extensive
forest of oak, alder, birch, thorn, holly and mountain ash is still
extant. A considerable portion of a natural forest composed of the same
trees is also conspicuous in the townlands of Carrick and Correll, and a
similar indication still remains in the townland of Minrin and Bonyhone.
Islands
The north eastern extremity of the parish, bounded by the shore of Lough
Erne, is very beautifully formed into bays, peninsulas, promontories and
creeks by the waters of the lake flowing in and around its shores.
Further west, it forms one continuous straight line of coast tor an
extent of several miles. Pushen Island, the most eastern belonging to
the parish, is very small, covering a surface of 6 acres and rising to
78 feet above the level of the lake, is partially cultivated, producing
good crops of potatoes and oats.
Owl Island, devoid of every recognised figure and form, elevating its
northern extremity 205 feet above the lake and sloping northerly to the
level of its shore, is also partially cultivated and covered with
underwood. [It] measures 22 acres and produces similar crops.
Goat Island forms itself into a narrow strip of bog, closely covered
with underwood and heath; is remarkable only by the immense quantity of
bilberries which grow upon its surface. Its area is 3 acres and altitude
164 feet.
Inishmacsaint Island has been described; it measures 56 acres and the
trigonometrical station stands 240 feet above the level of the lake.
Rabbit Island assumes a long, elliptical form, is densely covered with
alder and birch trees and underwood of holly, thorn and brambles. A very
small surface of its stony, unproductive soil is cultivated on its
southern surface. Its area amounts to 18 acres and altitude to 203 feet.
Heron island is also impenetrably covered with wood and jungle implanted
on bog, a circumstance somewhat singular in this and Goat Island. Its
content in acres is only 1 and elevation 154 feet.
Muckinish, richly clothed with verdure and well stocked with sheep
pasturing upon a limestone soil, measures 13 acres and the
trigonometrical point stands 196 feet above the lake.
Rossan Island is also converted into pasturage and contains 11 acres and
an elevation of 177 feet.
Rosscut and Greagh Islands on the north eastern shore of Lough Melvin
are also attached to island of Inishmacsaint. Both are densely covered
with timber of the alder, birch, ash and oak species. The former
measures 34 acres and rises 95 feet above the lake; the latter 12 acres
and 93 feet.
Climate
Nothing can exceed the vicissitudes of climate which prevail in this
district, the thermometer ranging 20 degrees in 24 hours, A succession
of several days of fine weather is almost invariably followed by an
equal space of storm and rain, doubtedlessly influenced by the proximity
of the surrounding mountains. The parish, however, is extremely healthy,
the inhabitants living to a great age. The crops in the lowlands,
implanted upon a lime and sandstone soil, are early, but in the
mountains the difference of temperature is so great and fructification
so very slow as to endanger the entire crop, unless prematurely cut down
to ripen in the sheaf. The prevailing winds are west and south west. The
latter, generally accompanied with rain, storm and hurricane, set in
from the north and north west. The easterly wind is piercingly cold, the
southern genial and salubrious.
NATURAL HISTORY
Botany
The yew, the juniper, scented woodruff and harebell exist in the rocky
cliffs and escarpments, the wild strawberry and raspberry in the side of
the glens, the cranberry and bilberry abound in the heath, and the whin
is permitted to expand its almost inexterminable radiculae over large
surfaces of the soil. Rushes proclaim aloud, by their vast
superabundance, care and solicitude in their preservation, whilst
drainage and the scythe have been found sufficient for their total
extermination; and the bramble and thorn have established undoubted
proprietory to very considerable areas of this naturally fertile
district. The gramina are indigenous to the soil, very few instances of
the introduction of rye grass being anywhere observable.
Zoology
Salmon, trout, perch, pike, bream and eel are abundant in Lough Erne and
Lough Melvin. In the latter the gilleroo trout, remarkable only for its
gizzard, is occasionally caught. Trout, perch and eel abound in the
mountain and smaller lakes. 40 years ago deer inhabited the mountains,
but have long since wholly disappeared. [Marginal note: What'?]. Hares
are still numerous in the mountainy limestone verdure, and wily Reynard
is often seen bounding his early way up the ravines and gorges of the
mountains; and the badger's inodorous exuvia offends the olfactories in
the deep recesses of the caves. Grouse, plover, snipe and woodcock
abound in the season and are strictly preserved. The heron is daily
stilting through the lakes. The mallard, widgeon and teal are
innumerable in winter, and the crowing of the pheasant in the jungle is
heard responding to the martial challenge of the cottage chauntycleer;
but of all the varieties of game which arouse and invigorate the
sportsman, partridge is the least abundant, the smallness of the
enclosures affording facility for their destruction, almost extinction.
Every other variety of avis peculiar to the climate, from the lonely
kingfisher in the ravines and streamlets of the mountain to the
semi-domestic chirper of the thatch, are in profuse abundance.
MEMOIR WRITING
Notes on Geology
Lieutenant Stotherd having repeatedly expressed his desire that no
geological report should be written, it is here omitted.
MODERN TOPOGRAPHY
Towns: Derrygonnelly, Churchill and Garrison
Derrygonnelly, Churchill and Garrison are the only villages in the
parish, the two first in the eastern, the latter in the western
division. Derrygonnelly, Derrygoinnill in the patent dated 1630 in the
5th year of King Charles I, is situated on the River Sillees on the
confines of the parish of Devenish and subdivides the distance from
Garrison to Enniskillen: 10 miles east of the former and 9 west of the
latter; and is north west of [word crossed out]. 10 years ago it
consisted of 2 or 3 cabins. Now it numbers 22 houses and several others
of increasing superiority are in process of erection. It possesses a
monthly fair, weekly market and petty session house erected by General
Archdale, which is crowded with litigants, sometimes once a week and
always every, fortnight.
Churchill, 2 miles north west of Derrygonnelly, a dilapidated village
tumbling every year more and more into ruins, is still the only post
office town in the parish. The mail coach running formerly through it,
and the old parish church now condemned and sold giving name to its
locality, rendered it the centre of communication, but it never was and,
may safely be predicted, never will attain to the rank of a medium
country village.
Garrison, a small village, derives its name from a circumstance of King
William halting his army after the battle of Aughrim and erecting a
barrack in the neighbourhood, the trace of which and a portion of
Barrack Street is still perceptible. [It] is situated on the River
Ruagagh, 10 miles west of Derrygonnelly and close to the south eastern
margin of Lough Melvin, and opening a communication with the county of
Leitrim; comprises about 10 well-built houses within its jurisdiction.
It also is endowed with the privilege of a monthly fair and has besides
the benefit of a church and Roman Catholic chapel.
A very fair specimen of the habits of the towns may be deduced from the
multifarious avocations of the people: Derrygonnelly contains about 20
families, 6 of whom are shopkeepers and 12 spirit dealers.
Churches
The Reverend H. Hamilton, a gentleman of profound erudition and very
superior taste, has lately erected a very, handsome rectory in the
townland of Binmore, and a church of equal elegance and beauty in the
immediate vicinity, consecrated on the 6th day of August 1831, capable
of accommodating 400 persons. There is also a church in the townland of
Slavin capable of containing 150, the earliest parochial record of which
in 1760 states that assessments were made for the salary of a clerk for
the chapels of ease of Slavin and Finnen, in which divine service was
performed on alternate Sundays and continued till about 20 years past,
when a separate curate was appointed to the church at Slavin. There is
another small church in Garrison accommodating about 200 parishioners,
and several Methodist meeting houses throughout the parish, whose
doctrine has widely spread itself over the minds of the Protestant
population. There are also 2 Roman Catholic chapels, one in
Derrygonnelly, the other near Garrison, with a resident rector and
curate to superintend their spiritual affairs. With the exception of the
Protestant and Roman Catholic clergymen and the commandant of the
constabulary, there is not another resident gentleman within the
boundaries of the parish.
Mills
There is not a bleach green or manufactory within the parish. Corn and
flax mills of very primitive construction are sufficiently numerous to
work up the produce of the season. Whatever superabundance may remain is
transported to the neighbouring markets.
Roads
2 principal roads traverse the parish longitudinally from east to west.
By-roads are sufficiently numerous for every accommodation.
The new mail coach road, constructed within the last few years along the
margin of Lough Erne through very delightful scenery from Enniskillen to
its junction with the old road in the townland of Maho, has much
improved its locality and facilitated the transport of produce to the
neighbouring markets. Its eastern position in the vicinity of Ely Lodge
and Binmore rectory is of the finest order, but in the townland of Maho
it has not only been constructed upon unsound principles but suffered to
remain in the very worst repair. The southern line extending from
Garrison to Derrygonnelly and on the Enniskillen, as well as the
crossroad connecting Belleek and Garrison and every other old road
traversing the parish, are of the very worst class and order. One
crossroad, connecting Derrygonnelly with Binmore church and the new mail
coach road, has lately been framed upon modem principles, and a new line
of road is proceeding from Derrygonnelly to Kiltyclogher in the county
of Leitrim, on the same improved system, which will open a very
desirable communication through a wild and semi-civilised district. All
these roads are made and maintained by the grand jury and levied in the
county cess. Bridges participate in the character and antiquity of the
roads and may be classed accordingly.
The continuation of a road lately constructed, which traverses the
townlands of Scandela and Mullykivit in the parish of Devenish and
Drumskimbly in the parish of Inishmacsaint, is above all things
desirable through the townlands of Caldrum, Tonagh, Driniaray,
Dresdernan and on westerly through the centre of the parish to a
junction with the central line leading through the townland of Faussive
to Bundoran and Ballyshannon.
General Appearance and Scenery.
Nothing can surpass in grandeur, sublimity and beauty the richly
diversified scenery of this extensive parish, either in contemplating
the majestic range of mountains elevating their lofty, sombre summits to
the sky, the mural escarpments and castellated forms of the more humble
but equally interesting chain of limestone heights in everlasting
verdure, the awfully impending, perpendicular precipices and cliffs,
exhibiting in their form and structure the organisation of the universe,
the enchanting form and variety of the alpine lakes upon the summit of
the mountains, the beautiful tranquillity of the undulating vale, the
silvery, oceanic expanse of Lough Erne and Melvin, their islands,
peninsulas and promontories, altogether combine in imparting vitality
and animation to scenery of the very highest range and order.
ANCIENT TOPOGRAPHY
Ancient Territory
In the ancient annals of Fermanagh an extensive district, extending from
near the town of Enniskillen to Belleek and embracing still more
westerly the tract of country bounded by the River Erne and Lough
Melvin, comprising several modern parishes, is assigned under the
denomination of Toorįį to O'Flannagan, the chief of a powerful clan
contemporary with McClanchy, O'Rourke, O'Donnell, McGuire, all
independent chieftains of the surrounding country. Port Tooraa, the
haven of his fleet, is a locality well recognised in present times, and
numbers of aborigines of the same name are still located over his
extensive territory. Along the south western shore of Lough Erne a very
beautiful and interesting strath of richly fertile soil, although now
subdivided into townlands, is still known by no other name than Fweealt,
an appellation highly appropriate, a magnificent rock 900 feet above its
plain impending its southern boundary.
Chapel Ruins
In the immediate vicinity of Derrygonnelly are the ruins of an old
chapel of ease, in remote time the private chapel of the Dunbars and
Montgomerys, the churchyard still forming the cemetery of the family and
surrounding population. The western gable of the ruin contains a doorway
of very superior masonry, surmounted with the family coat of arms, a
drawing of which is appended to this report.
In a beautifully sequestered and romantic situation in the townland of
Aughmore, doubtlessly selected by its capability of inspiring emotions
of the purest piety and devotion by the sublimity of the surrounding
scene, are the ruins of a very ancient Roman Catholic chapel erected by
O'Flanagan, Lord of Tooraa, in 1498, with the head of the patron saint
surmounting the eastern window; unquestionably the scene in days of
Roman ascendancy of vast congregations, now the centre of a small
Protestant community.
Inishmacsaint Monastery
On the eastern extremity of the island of Inishmacsaint are the ruins of
a Roman Catholic monastery of great antiquity and a very large stone
cross, formerly the scene of Roman devotion but long since abandoned by
its spiritual ministers and with the island converted into a valuable
stock farm for the English market. Colgan, the Franciscan who wrote in
the 16th century, says "S[anctus] Ninnidh extruxit nobile monasterium in
insula stagne Ernensis in Ultonia, vulgo Inis Mhuighe Samh dicta, in quo
multos in pietate ac literis singulariqne vitae continentia et
innocentia egregia institutos praeclaros habuit discipulos."
Castle
In the townland of Tully, and about 10 chains from the shore, are the
ruins of an old castle, the original mansion of the Hume family,
impressing the mind from a distance with a view of a relique of
antiquity; but on close examination is destitute of those formations
which constitute that character. Tradition assigns its erection to John
Hume in 1640, the early proprietor of an extensive grant of this
district, and its destruction in the rebellion of 1641, when the castle
was surrendered upon promise of fair quarter, on which the inmates were
first stripped and all murdered without mercy.
Gentlemen's seats in this country, are frequently termed "castles", and
hence the imposing name to the ruin on Tully Point. The Marquis of Ely
is now the proprietor.
Artificial Islands
The formation of a small, artificial island near the eastern margin of
Lough Carrick is assigned by tradition to Baron O'Flannagan, Lord of
Tooraa, the ancient chieftain of the district, as a place of refuge for
the females of his family during his depredatory incursions on
McClanchy, the chieftain of Dartree, and other surrounding clans.
Another artificial island, in the centre of a small lake in the townland
of Rooskey, has tradition for its authority as another place of retreat
in lawless times, when rapine and murder stalked the land, for the
defence of the baron's family; but the seat of his local legislation was
in Ballyflanagan, an artificial island in the centre of a small lake in
the western division of Fweealt, now the townland of Carrigolagh. The
lake has subsequently been drained and oak poles 30 feet long extracted
from the circle of the island, fractured pieces of glass tumblers, wine
glasses and porcelain, knives, forks and spoons, a great abundance of
oyster shells, together with swords and other implements of war, have
been dug up from the spot in recent times.
Forts
Circular raths or forts are numerous throughout the parish, very
frequently one in each townland, but as their construction was
unquestionably anterior to the subdivision by townlands the connection
is not very evident. Tradition erects them by the aborigines for the
protection of their persons and valuable cattle.
SOCIAL ECONOMY
Local Government
The only magistrate resident within the parish is the Revd H. Hamilton,
a gentleman as much respected and beloved by all classes, Protestant and
Roman Catholic, for the benevolence of his disposition and unbounded
charity, as he is distinguished for his piety and learning. In the
discharge of his magisterial duties he is supported by the Revd G. Read
and John Brien Esquire of Castletown, deputy lieutenant of the county.
Both resident magistrates are in the parish of Devenish. There are 2
other magistrates, agents of greater landed proprietors, but neither of
them resident.
The petty sessions are held once a fortnight in Derrygonnelly. Cases of
litigation are unimportant, chiefly referring to trespass, master and
servant etc., but unfortunately for the character and morality of the
parish, very atrocious crimes are occasionally committed. Waylay and
murder stain the reputation of this division of the county, but wholly
unconnected with either party or political combination. Illicit
distillation is carried on in the very remote and mountainous districts,
and to the fullest extent of the capabilities and resources of its
tenantry. In amount, however, it must be very small.
Police
The constabulary force is strong and effective, very judiciously
distributed and commanded by an active, energetic, intelligent officer.
[Table] Derrygonnelly: 1 officer, 1 constable, 6 subconstables;
Garrison: 1 constable, 5 subconstables; Belleek: 1 constable, 5
subconstables; Monea: 1 constable, 4 subconstables.
Dispensary
The tenantry in general are remarkably healthy, and instances of
longevity are by no means uncommon. The salubrity of the climate may, to
a certain extent, be ascribed to the prevalent westerly winds wafting
their genial influence from the contiguous Atlantic Ocean, most
assuredly not to the care and conservative habits of the people. Febris
intermittens is altogether unknown; febris comunnis is occasionally
reported. Pleuritis and rheumatisms are more frequent and phthisis ever
and anon marks its devoted victims, but these cases may frequently be
traced to an hereditary taint.
Derrygonnelly contains very recently a resident surgeon and Churchill
has the benefit of an established dispensary. Both contribute largely to
the prevention of disease and preservation of the health of the
community. Cholera, that devastating scourge of Asiatic and European
continents, has hitherto suspended its fatality from this highly
favoured soil.
[Dispensary table: complaints, number of patients and those cured,
remarks as to how supported]: average number of patients, rheumatism and
consumption, 60, cured 60; supported by the county and landed proprietors.
Schools
The parochial schoolhouse is situated in the centre of the most populous
Protestant neighbourhood. Many other schools, Protestant and Roman
Catholic, are diffused throughout the parish, some supported by public,
others by private subscription. The only system not patronised is the
Board of National Education. The people, full of intelligence and sound,
good sense, are fully sensible and alive to the benefit and value of a
good education, which has certainly conduced much to the extension of
morality and general good conduct, although much, very much, still
remains to be done.
Poor
There is no established asylum within the parish for the poor, aged and
infirm. Indeed, very few paupers are to be met with. The benevolent
contributions of the charitable and collections upon the Lord's Day are
the only sources of relief. The collections at the church of Binmore, on
an average of the last 3 years, amount to 30 pounds 12s 2d, and the
numbers on the poor list 74. The collection at Slavin church amounts
from 1s to 5s weekly and the poor to 20; and at Garrison 17 pounds 6s 8d
and the poor 75.
Religion
Protestantism, subdividing into Methodism and Presbyterianism,
distinguish one class, and Romanism the other of this widely-spread
community. The proportion of the former in the census of 1831 amounted
to, the latter to: [insert note: I cannot ascertain the proportion]. The
Protestant divines derive their incomes from glebe land and tithe; the
Roman Catholic are supported by the people, deriving their incomes from
the fees established by the laws and discipline of their church.
Habits of the People
Would that it were possible, in sincerity and truth, to characterise the
community as a people of sober, cleanly, frugal and industrious habits.
An apathy and indifference to the accumulation of wealth seem to pervade
almost the whole population, apparently happy and contented in their
condition and nearly upon equality with each other. They evince no
ambition or desire of independence. A distant view of the farmhouses,
gardens, orchards and planted hedgerows, which so much adorn and
beautify the country, present great improvement and superiority to many
other parishes, and induce a supposition of much neatness and care; but
on a close examination of the premises the same indifference to
cleanliness and comfort alike, without and within the dwellings,
universally prevails, from the humble cottier in his cabin to the yeoman
farmer of 100 acres with valuable flocks upon his glens.
Several recent farm buildings are constructed of sandstone in a very
improved and substantial manner, some slated but more generally
thatched, and much improvement in this respect is in daily progress,
more particularly in the townlands leased at will. Potatoes and milk
constitute the diet of the peasantry. Several years ago oatmeal and
animal food formed no small portion of their daily meals, but both have
long since, and still continue, luxuries very far beyond their present
humble resources. There are no particular amusements or recreations with
the exception of fairs, neither does any particular uniform in dress or
costume prevail, as in Connaught or Leinster.
Emigration
Nothing but the means of transport prevents a simultaneous emigration of
the labouring class to Australia or the Canadas. Let the emigration
advocates come forward, and the superabundant population, if an evil,
will soon disappear. Very few indeed proceed from hence to England in
the harvest season.
Schools
[Table contains the following headings: name of townland where situated,
religion and sex of pupils, remarks as to how supported, when established]
Meagheraher, 25 males, 25 females, 50 total; 1d per week and his support.
Cosbystown, 21 males, 20 females, 41 total; 1d per week and his support.
Drumenenaghbeg, 24 females, 24 total; under the patronage of the
Marchioness of Ely.
Wheathill Glebe, 22 males, 19 females, 41 total; under the Hibernian
Society, patron Revd H. Hamilton.
Aughameclan, 12 males, 13 females, 25 total; 1d per week and his support.
Coveall, 16 males, 14 females, 30 total; 1d per week and his support.
Killymore, 15 males, 15 females, 30 total; 1s 6d per quarter for each
[pupil].
Killybeg, 18 males, 7 females, 25 total; 1s 6d per quarter for each [pupil].
Knockarevan, 12 males, 12 females, 24 total; 1s 6d per quarter for each
[pupil].
Fanssive, 12 males, 14 females, 26 total 1d per week and his support.
Drimnasrene, 12 males, 10 females, 22 total; 1d per week and his support.
Drumbadmeen, 17 males, 20 females, 35 [sic] total; 1d per week, under
the Hibernian Society.
Ferrinmontercassidy, 20 males, 20 females, 40 total; 1d per week and his
support.
Leryan, 17 males, 18 females, 35 total; 1s 6d per quarter for each [pupil].
Blackslee, 20 males, 15 females, 35 total; 1d per week and his support.
Glen East, 20 males, 20 females, 40 total; 1d per week and his support.
Dispensary Table
Average number of patients on the dispensary books 60, supported by the
county and landed proprietors. It has been stated to me that the Marquis
of Ely's agent gave it as his opinion that the surgeon of the dispensary
ought not to give the information sought for in this return. The above
information was received from the nurse of the dispensary.
Ecclesiastical Summary
Name Inishmacsaint, diocese Clogher, province Ulster, a rectory, no
union, patron the Marquis of Ely, incumbent the Revd H. Hamilton; extent
of glebe 536 acres, tithes belonging to the Revd H. Hamilton.
PRODUCTIVE ECONOMY
Manufactures: Linen
20 years ago the manufacture of linen was carried to considerable extent
and produced an adequate remuneration. The sound of the shuttle was
heard in every dwelling and contributed largely to the payment of the
rent. This branch of trade, the only one within the parish, has now
become almost extinct.
Fairs and Markets
Monthly fairs, the bane and demoralisation of nine-tenths of the Irish
population, are held in Derrygonnelly on the 24th of each month, in
Garrison on the 18th, in Belleek on the 10th and in Monea on the 13th,
for the sale of horses, cows, sheep and pigs. Annual or half-yearly
assemblies would be quite sufficient for the wants and necessities of
the country, and would lead to habits of sobriety, industry and
accumulation. Immense crowds attend, having no direct agricultural
object whatever, and however valuable the time or favourable the season,
it is prostituted at the shrine of these perpetual fairs and gatherings
of the people. Milk cows sell for 4 pounds to 5 pounds 10s, horses from
8 pounds to 14 pounds, sheep from 30s to 35s and pigs at about 2d
ha'penny per pound.
Proprietors and Leases
The parish may be subdivided amongst 3 great landed proprietors, the
Marquis of Ely, General Archdale and Colonel Montgomery, neither of whom
are resident, but the mansions of the 2 former are in close proximity,
the latter in the county of Tyrone. From the marquis no information
whatever connected with his estate in the parish has been communicated;
from General Archdale and Colonel Montgomery the following valuable
details were most readily afforded. The Archdale patent [was] granted in
1630, in the 5th year of King Charles I, constituting the manor of
Drumra and establishing a court leet and a court baron within its
jurisdiction. The size of the farms varies from 20 to 150 acres. There
are 8 farms above 100 acres, 10 above 50, 30 above 20 and 50 above 10,
the general duration of lease 3 lives or 31 years; and the rent per acre
of good land from 15 to 20s, second quality of land 17s per acre and
mountain from 1s to 2s 6d per acre.
The Dunbar patent (Colonel Montgomery) [was] granted in 1614 in the 13th
year of King James I, constituting the manor of Dunbar and establishing
a court baron within its jurisdiction. The size of the farms upon the
estate of Colonel Montgomery, a gentleman possessing vast, practical
knowledge on every subject connected with the interests of the county
and kingdom, vary from 15 to 50 acres. There are 3 farms above 100
acres, 10 above 50, 5 above 20 and 10 above 10 acres, the general
duration of lease 3 lives and the value per acre of good land from 20 to
30s, Irish plantation measure; of second class land 15 to 20s and of
inferior or mountain from 1 to 5s per acre. The colonel 'grants no new
leases but to very improving tenants with large farms, but encourages
and pays tenants at will for improvements made with his approbation. Old
leases are universally sublet to a numerous impoverished peasantry,
destitute of capital to sustain the power of the soil, having no
perspective consideration whatever beyond present subsistence and who,
with the utmost difficulty, contrive to pay their rents. Most new
lettings are at will of the landlord, and on these townlands improvement
is everywhere permissible.
Farms and Husbandry
The cultivated farms are invariably subdivided into innumerable small
enclosures, to suit the system of agriculture almost universally pursued
throughout this parish and the surrounding counties: the complete
exhaustion of one half of the farm by a succession of crops without
manure, whilst the other half is deriving from the elements those powers
of fructification which will enable it to sustain a similar course of
devastation. The succession of crops are as follows: potatoes upon
pasture with manure, the second year potatoes, the third, fourth and
fifth oats, until the productive powers of the soil are annihilated; and
this pauperising system is not only universal in this district but
almost in every other of this highly gifted but deplorably fated country.
The practice of burning soil for manure is another ruinous substitute
for the accumulations of the stable yard and byre. The soil is composed
of the comminuted particles of the lime and sandstone rocks, the very
best combination, forming a naturally rich, productive soil. The ditches
and drains, particularly in the bogs, abound with marle affording
valuable manure, yet seldom used although its productive powers are
universally known. Culture is chiefly manual, by spade. The implements
of husbandry are of modern construction but the primitive slide and
wooden wheel car are still in use. County cess and tithe are the local
taxes of the district.
Grazing
Very extensive tracts of the parish have been converted into grazing
farms, indebted entirely to the richness of the limestone soils for
their powers of pasturation. No improvement has ever been attempted by
the introduction of artificial grasses, the soil remaining and ever will
remain "sedet, eternumque sedebit" in its primitive state. Vast tracts
of mountain are capable of being converted from an almost desolate
waste, by the application of industry and the common principles of
drainage, into profitable pasture and valuable arable soil. The chief
impediment to so desirable an object is the ruinous system of long
leases, depriving the landlord of the power of carrying his designs into
execution, and the want of capital on the part of the tenantry to
sustain the fertility of the soil, and also their total disregard of the
most common principles of agriculture.
Cattle
Cattle of very superior quality are grazed under the stock farming
system, but not bred upon the spot. Purchased at different fairs, they
are transported to these pastures for a season and then exported to the
English market.
Bogs and Drainage
The bogs in the populous portions of the parish are too valuable as fuel
to admit of their conversion to any other purpose. Charcoal for the use
of forges is made of peat upon the mountains. The oak and fir trees
found imbedded in the bogs are cut in roofing timber and more highly
valued than the finest northern or American deal. No care whatever is
devoted to the draining, cleaning or improving of the land, and
plantation or the formation of nurseries are equally unthought of.
General Remarks
There is not a parish in the kingdom more capable of improvement than
Inishmacsaint. Its valuable carboniferous quarries of limestone,
abounding in every direction, afford the immediate means of enriching
and fructifying the soil. Its undulating surface presents the utmost
facility for drainage. The graduated ascent from the summit of the
mountain render the reclaiming of bog and waste land a simple operation.
Lough Erne washing its northern and Lough Melvin its south western
boundaries furnish a cheap and ready transport for its produce. In
short, the only desideratum wanting to render it a prosperous and
wealthy parish is a persevering spirit of industry and steady habits of
accumulation on the part of its intelligent and hardy tenantry.
[Signed]
P. Taylor. Lieutenant Royal Engineers, 13th November 1834.
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