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Village of Birmingham - Then and Now

The village of Birmingham in Florence Township, Erie County, Ohio lies at the eastern edge of an unusual and unique tract of land, The Firelands of the Connecticut Western Reserve, sometimes called the Sufferers Lands.

The Firelands where what is today Erie County, Huron County, Ruggles Township in Ashland County and Danbury Township in Ottawa County.

The village of Birmingham sprang into existence soon after the War of 1812-14. Its early growth was rapid. Wagon roads were being constructed and Birmingham was located on the through east and west stage and mail route. This was before railroads.

Birmingham soon became the center of a considerable business area. Birmingham was originally called Mecca, and Perez Starr’s family was its first settlers. Perez Starr, a millwright, came to the community and built a log cabin on Main Road now known as Route 113. Later a large frame home was built which still stands on the original site. It is now the home of Perez Starr’s great-great grandson, Starr Truscott. In 1819, Perez Starr built a saw and grist mill on the Vermillion River. Daniel Chandler, the first carpenter in the area, framed the mill. Starr sold the mill to Cyrus Butler about 1823. Mr. Butler, a merchant from Norwalk, who brought the mill from P. Starr, also started the first mercantile business in Birmingham. He also built a forge. Later selling all to Mr. Cobb. Aaron Higgins built the first tanning house east of the river and south of the mill diking.

Buyers and sellers of grain, stock, etc., congregated here. Birmingham was then much larger and did more business than Wakeman, Vermilion, Berlin Heights, Kipton, or even Oberlin.

For a time three hotels were located here, four churches, four saloons, a furniture store, two blacksmith shops, a carriage shop, two wagon and repair shops, a cooper’s shop, cigar factory, meat market, cheese factory, post office, and tailor shop, plus two doctors and a drug store. The present post office building was originally the old drug store, and moved to its present site in the late 1890’s. There was also an undertaking establishment, a grocery store and a large dry goods store. Herds of cattle and horses, and flocks of sheep were driven here for sale. Thousands of bushels of grain changed hands to be taken east or west on the old stage road.

Birmingham was then one of the booming frontier towns, looking forward to becoming a city. At about this time [1845] the railroads began to become a factor. The links of road which later became the Lake Shore Railroad started business. The stage coach was displaced by steam engine and train. The northern division of the Lake Shore passed seven miles north of Birmingham and the southern division seven miles south of Birmingham.

Soon business was diverted. The railroads transported the cattle, sheep, grain, etc. The through mail routes went by steam. Our town soon ceased to grow. Towns on the railroad about us got the business. Vermilion, Wakeman and others gradually grew at our expense. Our hotels and business houses were not as well patronized.

Gone are the many businesses which flourished here more than a century ago; even the original business houses no longer stand as they were swept away in the devastating fire of 1891 which claimed both sides of Main Street. The old Green Line [electric streetcar] track which offered ready transportation to Elyria and other far away places is gone--its old station building, recently remodeled, which stands on Chapel Street, now houses equipment of the Lorain Telephone Company.

Lost to that by-gone era is the elegance and charm of the fancy dress balls and holiday celebrations held at the community’s most popular hotel, the Shoff House.

Though actually located in one county [Erie] and attached to another [Lorain] for school purposes [the Florence Twp. area was part of the consolidation of the Firelands School District] there is still strong community spirit. Residents are proud of the old Florence Twp. Hall which has been converted to a vehicle garage, of an old Fire Station which has been remodeled into a Twp. office, including new quarters for the fire department. During the nation’s bi-centennial celebration in 1976, the old octagonal town hall in Florence was dedicated as a national landmark. It has known many uses including schoolhouse, townhall, meeting place, voting place and Sunday School rooms. While the community once boasted of four churches, today only the Methodist Church, built in 1840, remains.

Orchards and agriculture have always played a major role in Florence Twp.’s economy, even to this day, the area remains mostly residential surrounded by lovely farmland. Lately, however, the roll has been shared with oil production and industry as represented by several firms such as: M. A. Harrison Mfg. Co., Inc., producers of brass fittings; Bettcher Industries, Inc., manufacturers of food processing equipment and various related items; Birmingham Metal Products Co., Inc., producers of aircraft parts; Cammann Mfg. Co.; Hale Street Erectors, Inc., erectors of steel buildings, etc; Gammons Wood Products, makers of wooden palletts; J.T.T. Company, producers and distributors of boat trailers; Ace Filling and Capping, suppliers of adhesives; and Erie Oil & Gas, maintainers of oil production.

Meetings are no longer held, but memories of the old Florence Twp. Community Club remain strong. Formal organization of this club occurred October 3, 1945. One of the foremost concerns of this organization was the Florence local school in Birmingham. During the late 40’s and early 50’s, home-talent presented plays, musical and showboat-type entertainment to raise funds to furnish equipment, extra-curricular supplies and landscaping for the school. Those who attended the "Southern Dances" sponsored by the club will not forget the lavish decorations of palms, authentic Spanish moss draped from vines, a banana tree and the bright full "moon" which shone from the stage behind the orchestra. The dances began in April of 1944 and continued as an annual event until the early 1950’s. By popular request a "Harvest Dance" was added in the fall. This dedicated group also supported the Girl and Boy Scout Troops.

Annual Halloween and Christmas parties were staged, particularly for the children of the community. The annual Halloween party is now sponsored by the United Methodist Church and run in cooperation with the local UNICEF drive.

The club’s meetings were akin to old-time town meetings. Discussions covered many topics, including state pressure for school consolidation and the sinking water level, both current in November 1949. A social time followed the business meetings for the enjoyment of even the youngest members.

The work of the club is most evident in the reproduction of famous paintings hung throughout the Florence Elementary School building for the education and appreciation of all who enter.

The club did not formally disband but merely faded out until only a skeleton remains. The ghost of the Florence Twp. Community Club returns on Memorial Day in an annual parade which swells the tiny community’s populace to overflowing. The remaining funds of the club still provide the soft drink treat for the paraders.

Today, in addition to the fire department and the church, other organizations, such as the local Firelands Garden Club and Lions Club and youth organizations, foster the spirit of the community with their civic projects.

Even the old stone quarry near Birmingham is no longer worked on a daily basis. The quarry is operated by the Cleveland Quarries Company of South Amherst. Started in 1925, it still provides the beautiful "buff" stone, an attractive cream tan color, only when special building projects require.

The government in Birmingham is administered by a board of trustees for Florence Twp., in cooperation with county officials. During the last decade or so, zoning regulations have directed growth and commercial development.

The development of the automobile and hard-surface road changed Birmingham as it changed our nation and the civilized world. Transportation and communication became rapid. "Growing" from farmland on Harrison Road, north of Route 113, is a micro-wave relay tower. Replacing coaxial-cable systems, the tower is part of an east west communications set-up which transmits by invisible micro-waves. The commuter became and remains the mainstay of the population of the present day small town. Trucks move farm produce direct to the city markets, and the all day trip to the county seat has become a matter of minutes. Now the Ohio Turnpike traverses the northern half of the township, and Route 113 crosses midway from east to west. Route 60 spans the areas middle from north to south.

An era has passed and with it gas lights, horses hoofs, mud roads where children contentedly made mud pies to bake in the sun, self-sufficiency, and isolations. Eras and times change, however, and we pray that the changes of the future will be to the good of mankind and our descendants.

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Transcribed by Lowell Dunlap