Panic--Indian troubles--Tour to the Interior--Causes--Precautions--Excitement increases--Mr. Brewer’s letter--The Sub-Agent--Expedition resolved upon--Opposed by Dr. McLaughlin--Departure--A squall--Ascent of the Columbia--Mount Hood--Romantic scenery--Sabbath encampment--Reflections--Remarkable rocks--Cascades--flow formed--Indian tradition confirmed--LaDallas--Canasissa--Negotiation--De Shutes--John Day--Sabbath Reflections--Arrival at Dr. Whitman’s--Interview with the Kayuse chiefs--Excursion--Adventure of Mr. Perkins--Party proceeds--Snake river--Red wolf--Laperai--Accident--Grotesque exhibition--Temperance training--Rev. Mr. and Mrs. Spaulding--Return to Dr. Whitman’s--Interesting negotiations--Closing feast--Homeward--Story of the Walla-Walla chief--Peter Ogden--Arrival home.

APRIL 14. This settlement has been thrown into a panic by intelligence which has just been received from the upper country, concerning the hostile intentions of the Kayuse, Nez Perce, and Walla-Walla Indians. It appears that they have again threatened the destruction of the whites. Some time in October last, Indian report said that these tribes were coming down to kill off the Boston people, meaning those from the United States. This intelligence produced considerable excitement at the time, and induced the sub-agent of Indian Affairs to go directly to the upper country and ascertain the truth of the report, and if possible settle all matters of difficulty. On arriving among the Indians, he ascertained that he report was not without foundation; but entered into such arrangements with them as appeared to give satisfaction. Thomas McKay contributed much to allay the excitement among them, and in connexion with the sub-agent, induced the Nez Perces to adopt a code of laws, and appoint a head chief and inferior chiefs, sufficient to carry the laws into execution. It had been the policy of the Hudson’s Bay Company to destroy the chieftainship, cut the different tribes into smaller clans, and divide their interests as far as possible so as to weaken them, and render them incapable of injuring the whites, by preventing them from acting in concert. But the sub-agent adopted a different policy. The individual appointed to the high chieftainship over the Nez Perces, was one Ellis, as he was called by the English, who, having spent several years in the settlement on the Red river, east of the mountains, had, with a smattering of the English language, acquired a high sense of his own importance; and consequently, after he was appointed chief, pursued a very haughty and overbearing course. The fulfillment of the laws which the agent recommended for their adoption, was required by Ellis with the utmost rigor. Individuals were severely punished for crimes which, from time immemorial, had been committed by the people with impunity. This occasioned suspicions in the minds of the Indians generally, that the whites designed the ultimate subjugation of their tribes. They saw in the laws they had adopted, a deep-laid scheme of the whites to destroy them, and take possession of their country. The arrival of a large party of emigrants about this time, and the sudden departure of Dr. Whitman to the United States, with the avowed intention of bringing back with him as many as he could enlist for Oregon, served to hasten them to the above conclusion. That a great excitement existed among the Indians in the interior, and that they designed to make war upon the settlement, was only known to the whites through the medium of vague report, until a letter was received from H. K. W. Perkins, at the Dalls, in which he informed us that the Wascopam and Walla-Walla Indians had communicated to him in substance the following information: that the Indians are very much exasperated against the whites in consequence of so many of the latter coming into the country, to destroy their game, and take away their lands; that the Nez Perces dispatched one of their chiefs last winter on snow shoes, to visit the Indians in the buffalo country east of Fort Hall, for the purpose of exciting them to cut off the party that it is expected Dr. Whitman will bring back with him to settle the Nez Perce country; that the Indians are endeavoring to form a general coalition for the purpose of destroying all the Boston people: that it is not good to kill a part of them, and leave the rest, but that every one of them must be destroyed. This information produced a great excitement throughout the community, and almost every man had a plan of his own by which to avert the impending storm. In the estimation of some, the Indians were to be upon us immediately, and it was unsafe to retire at night, for fear the settlement would be attacked before morning. The plan of the agent was to induce men to pledge themselves, under the forfeiture of one hundred dollars in case of delinquency, to keep constantly on hand, and ready for use, either a good musket or a rifle, and one hundred charges of ammunition, and to hold themselves in readiness to go at the call of the agent to any part of the country, not to exceed two days travel, for the purpose of defending the settlement, and repelling any savage invaders. This plan pleased some of the people, and they put down their names; but many were much dissatisfied with it, and as we had no authority, no law, no order, for the time being, in the country, it was impossible to tell what would be the result, if the Indians should attempt to carry their threats into execution.

April 14th. Information was brought to the settlement from the Klackamas tribe of Indians, who live three miles below the falls of the Wallamette, which served to increase the excitement occasioned by the reports from the interior. It appears that an Indian of the Molala tribe, connected with the Klackamas Indians by marriage, stole a horse from a man by the name of Anderson, and when asked by the latter if he had stolen his horse and rode him off, answered, "Yes, I stole your horse, and when I want another one I shall steal him also." To this Anderson replied, "If you stole my horse you must pay me for him." "Yes," said the Indian, "I will pay you for him, take that horse," pointing to a very poor horse which stood near by, with one eye out, and a very sore back. Anderson replied, "That is a very poor horse and mine was a very good one; I shall not take him, and if you don’t bring him back I will report you to Dr. White." "I am not afraid of Dr. White," said the Indian, "let him come if he wants to, and bring the Boston people with him; he will find me prepared for him."

Anderson not being able to effect a settlement with the Indian, immediately reported him to the agent, whereupon the latter wrote to a man at the falls by the name of Campbell, to take a sufficient number of men armed with muskets, and go very early in the morning to the Indian camp, and take the horse-thief a prisoner, and bring him up to the falls. Accordingly, Campbell procured five men, and went to the camp as commanded, but found thirty or forty Indians painted in the most hideous manner, and armed with muskets, bows and arrows, tomahawks, and scalping knives, and determined at all events to protect the horse-thief, and drive back those that should come to take him. Campbell rushed on to take the rogue, but met with such resistance from superiority of numbers, and finding that the enterprise, if urged forward, would terminate in bloodshed, if not in the loss of all their lives, sounded a retreat, and extricating himself from the Indians, returned to the falls. He communicated the results of his attempt to Dr. White, and the Doctor started off immediately in company with G. W. Le Breton, resolved to capture the thief and bring the tribe to terms.

April 17th. The excitement still continued, former reports having been confirmed, and all were engaged in repairing guns, and securing ammunition. A report was in circulation that Dr. McLaughlin refused to grant supplies for any consideration to all those persons who sub- scribed the memorial praying the Congress of the United States to extend jurisdiction over Oregon. If this be so, the American population, as nearly all signed the memorial, will not be able to obtain ammunition, however necessary it may be, as there is none in the country except what may be found within the stockades of Vancouver. I think, however, that the report is false Report says, furthermore, that the Klikitat Indians are collecting together back of the Tuality plains, but for what purpose is not known. The people on the plains, consisting of about thirty families, quite alarmed. There is also a move among the Calapooahs. Shoefon, one of the principal men of the tribe, left this place a few days ago, and crossed the Wallamette river, declare that he would never return until he came with a in band of men to drive off the Boston people. He was very much offended because some of his people were seized and flogged, through the influence of Dr. White, for having stolen horses from some of the missionaries, and flour from the mission mill. His influence is not very extensive among the Indians or we might have much to fear. The colony is indeed in a most defenceless condition; two hundred Indians, divided into four bands, might destroy the entire settlement in one night.

In the evening of the 17th, Dr. White arrived at my house bringing intelligence from the falls. He and Mr. Le Breton attempted to go to the falls on horseback, but in trying to ford Haunchauke river, they found the water so deep that they were obliged to swim, and the Doctor turned his horse’s head, and came out the side he went in; but Le Breton, being the better mounted of the two, succeeded in gaining the opposite shore; and having the Doctor’s letters in his possession, continued on to the falls. The Doctor returned to the settlement. Le Breton returned the following day, and brought information from the five men who attempted to take the Indian who had stolen Anderson’s horse, that soon after their retreat the Indians became alarmed and broke up in great haste; but before they left, they informed Anderson that the horse they had stolen from him was worn out and good for nothing, and tying a good horse to a tree near Anderson’s house, they told him that he must take that and be satisfied. They then hurried away, saying that they should not be seen in that region again. It was ascertained that the Klackamas Indians had nothing to do with the stolen horse. that it was a band of the Molalas, the very same rascals that stole a horse from me two years before, and after having him in their possession several weeks, brought him down within a few miles of nay house, where they encamped, and where I went with one man and took him from the midst of more than fifty grim looking savages.

On the 20th of April, a letter was received in the settlement, written by H. B. Brewer, at the Dalls, which brings the latest intelligence from the infected region. This letter states that the Indians in the interior talk much of war, and Mr. Brewer urges Dr. White to come up without delay, and endeavor to allay the excitement. He does not inform us that the Indians design any evil toward the whites, but says that the war is to be between themselves, but that the Boston people have much to fear. As the Doctor, in his visit to the interior last October, left an appointment to meet the Walla-Walla Indians and the Kayuses, in their own country, on the tenth of May, and believing that a great share of the excitement originated in a misunderstanding of the Indians, he came to the conclusion at all. hazards to go among them. At the solicitation of the agent, I determined to accompany him on the expedition.

The great complaint of the Indians was that the Boston people designed to take away their lands, and reduce them to slavery. This they had inferred from what Dr. White had told them in his previous visit; and this misunderstanding of the Indians had not only produced a great excitement among them, but had occasioned considerable trouble betwixt them and the missionaries and other whites in the upper country, as well as influencing them to threaten the destruction of all the American people. Individuals had come down from fort Walla- Walla to Vancouver, bringing information of the excited state of things among the Indians, and giving out that it would be extremely dangerous for Dr. White to go up to meet his engagements. Their opinion was, that in all probability he and the party which he might think proper to take with him, would be cut off. But it was the opinion of many judicious persons in the settlement, that the welfare of the Indians, and the peace and security of the whites, demanded that some persons qualified to negotiate with the Indians, should proceed immediately to the scene of disaffection, and if possible remove the cause of the excitement by correcting the error under which the Indians labored. Accordingly, Dr. White engaged twelve men besides myself, mostly French Canadians who had had much experience with Indians, to go with him; but a few days before the time fixed upon to start had arrived, they all sent him word that they had decided not to go. They were doubtless induced to pursue this course through the influence of Dr. McLaughlin, and the Catholic priests.

When the day arrived for starting, we found ourselves abandoned by every person who had engaged to go, except Mr. G .W. Le Breton, an American, one Indian boy, and one Kanaka. With the two latter the Doctor and myself left the Wallamette settlement on the twenty-fifth of April, 1843, and proceeded on horseback to the Butte, where we found Le Breton in waiting for us. He had provided a canoe and a few pieces of pork and beef for our use on the voyage.

Here we met a letter from Dr. John Me Laughlin, at Vancouver, discouraging us from our undertaking in view of the difficulties and dangers attending such an expedition; but we had counted the cost, and were not to be diverted from our purpose, though dangers stared us in the face. We supposed that if the Indians entertained any hostile intentions against the whites in general, there could be no better way to defeat their purposes than to go among them; convince them that they had no grounds of fear; and that the whites, instead of designing to bring them into subjection, were desirous of doing them good. Prevented by one thing and another from setting sail, on the night of the twenty-seventh we slept on a bank of sand at the Butte, and next day proceeded in our little canoe down to the Wallamette falls, where we continued until the twenty-ninth. Here we received another package from Dr. McLaughlin, giving us information that Rev. Mr. De Merce, a Catholic priest, had just come down from the upper country, bringing intelligence that the Indians are only incensed against the Boston people; that they have nothing against the French and King George people; they are not mad at them, but are determined that the Boston people shall not have their lands, and take away their liberties. On receiving this intelligence from Mr. De Merce, Dr. McLaughlin advised the Frenchman who had engaged to go with Dr. White, to have nothing to do with the quarrel, to remain quiet at home, and let the Americans take care of themselves. He also expressed, in his letter, the opinion that all the people should remain quiet, and in all probability the excitement among the Indians would soon subside.

Not seeing sufficient reason to change our course, on the morning of the 28th, we left our hospitable friends at the Falls., and continued our course down the Wallamette towards Vancouver. At noon we, had sailed twenty miles, and stopped for dinner within five miles of the mouth of the Wallamette, on a low piece of ground, overgrown with luxuriant grass, but which is always overflown at the rise of the Columbia, which is about the first of June. "Weighed anchor" after dinner, and at four o’clock, p. m., arrived at Vancouver. Called on Dr. McLaughlin for goods, provisions, powder, balls, &c., for our accommodation on our voyage up the Columbia, and, though he was greatly surprised that, under the circumstances, we should think of going among those excited Indians, yet he ordered his clerks to let us have whatever we wanted. However, we found it rather squally at the fort, not so much on account of our going among the Indians of the interior, as in consequence of a certain memorial having been sent to the United States’ Congress, implicating the conduct of Dr. McLaughlin and the Hudson’s Bay Company, and bearing the signatures of seventy Americans. I inquired of the Doctor if he had refused to grant supplies to those Americans who bid signed that document; he replied that he had not, but that the authors of the memorial need expect no more favors from him. Not lycing one of the authors, but merely a signer of the petition, I did not come under the ban of the company; consequently I obtained my outfit for the expedition, though at first there were strong indications that I would be refused.

We remained at the fort over night and a part of the next day, and after a close conversation with the gentleman in command, were treated with great courtesy. At two o’clock, p. m., of Saturday 29th, left, and continued our voyage up the Columbia. As we proceeded from the fort, mount Hood appeared directly before us. Though this mountain is twenty-five miles from the river, and more than forty from Vancouver, yet it appeared to be not more than five or six miles distant. There are few things, perhaps, in the world, that combine more grandeur and sublimity in their appearance than this stupendous glacier viewed from the surface of the Columbia river. The Alleghany and Katskill mountains are but mounds when compared with this astonishing pile of Basalt, whose head is lifted to the amazing height of sixteen thousand feet, and whitened with perpetual snow. We feasted our eyes upon this sublime spectacle until the sun had bidden us good night, and the shades of evening had thrown a dark mantle around the enchanting scenery; then mooring our canoe in a little eddy, we made our encampment for the Sabbath on a small island about ten miles above Vancouver, which is evidently laid under contribution by the Columbia every succeeding June, but which, at this time, was fifteen feet higher than the waters of the river. A canoe containing seven Indians, left the fort with us, and as we were short of help, one of the Indians engaged, for the consideration of a blanket and one shirt, to take the stern of our canoe, and assist us up to the Dalls. These Indians belonged to the Wascopam tribe, and most of them profess to have been converted to christianity through the labors of Rev. Daniel Lee, and Rev. H. K. W. Perkins. We all encamped in the same place, and when the time for evening prayers arrived, the Indians all joined us with apparent sincerity and devotion, after which we committed ourselves to sleep on our blanket beds upon the ground. After a comfortable night’s rest, we arose and enjoyed our humble repast, consisting of ham, bread, butter and tea. We prepared to spend the sacred day as profitably as we could, though in the lonely solitudes of a dense forest of Cottonwood, on the banks of the Columbia. We engaged in a season of reading the scriptures, singing, and prayer, after which I endeavored to give our Neophytes a lesson concerning the things which belong to their peace. This done, I strolled along the banks or the river about one-fourth of a mile, for the purpose of being alone, and coming to a wild appletree which leaned its trunk over the smooth surface of the waters, I seated myself upon it, and a train of reflections, varying in their influence upon my feelings as they differed in character, passed through my mind.

I thought of beloved parents from whom I had not heard for years; of the tears they shed when last I saw them, and received the parting benediction, and of the anxiety they must still feel, if alive, for their wandering son. I thought of all my former associates, of brothers and sisters, and early school mates, and Christian friends, with whom I had taken sweet counsel, and walked to the house of God, and who, if they had not forgotten me, would ask, "Where is he? and what is his employment?" I thought of everything of interest in my native land; of bustling cities, with wheels rattling and hoofs clattering over their pavements; of smiling villages and towns, with their splendid turnpikes and McAdamized roads; of railroad cars and steamboats; of temples erected to the God of heaven; the toll of chiming bells as they informed the waiting thousands that the time of worship had arrived; of crowded assemblies listening to the messengers of Jesus; and of saints rejoicing, and altars thronged with mourning penitents. Continuing these reflections until my mind experienced a kind of abstraction from the objects surrounding me, I fancied myself really amidst the scenes, the contemplation of which had produced this pleasing illusion, and starting up I found myself surrounded with the stillness of death, save the murmuring of the turbid waters of the Columbia that rolled, beneath, where I sat. Contrasting the land which had passed before my mental vision with that in which I felt myself a voluntary exile, I exclaimed, how changed the scene! This, thought I, is truly a land of darkness. Amidst the solitudes of these forests and plains the gospel is never heard except perchance the missionary of the cross may be passing through the land, and then to but here and there a small group of wretched Indians, who are alternately shivering with ague, and burning with fever, upon the brink of death. I was led to inquire, when shall this state of things give way to civilization and Christianity? when shall "the sound of the church-going bell" be heard among these mountains and, over these plains? When shall the banks of this noble river be studded with cities and villages, with the temples of Jehovah, whose steeples blazing in the sunlight, shall tell the traveler that God is worshiped here? And I fancied this response came back to my inquiries: not until the present race shall have gone to the graves of their fathers, and others shall rise to take their place.

Returning to the camp we sat down upon the ground to a dinner which the Doctor’s Kanaka, John, and my Indian boy, Sampson, had prepared for us. Towards evening the Doctor and myself walked leisurly into the thickest of the forest, toward the centre of the Island, and seating ourselves upon a log, talked of by-gone days, raised a song of praise to the Redeemer, and upon our knees offered up a tribute of thanksgiving for the past, and invoked the Divine blessing on our future course.

Monday, May 1st. At sunrise proceeded on our voyage, and were much delighted with the magnificent scenery on the shores of the great Columbia. At eight o’clock passed the Prairie Du———, which lies on the north side of the river. This is a low, wet prairie, with but little land which will admit of cultivation, but well adapted to grazing purposes. As we proceeded, the land next to the river became more uneven, the shores more rocky and abrupt, and at length we found ourselves crawling along at the base of a frowning precipice of rocks rising more than three hundred feet perpendicular over our heads. A little farther on and huge masses of Basalt appeared thrown together in the wildest confusion, and these would be succeeded by another frightful precipice, causing one involuntarily to cringe while looking, upward towards its dizzy height. From the top, as if to add beauty to terror, came leaping down a limpid brook, which lost itself in spray, long before it reached the bottom; and then again large fir-trees, stuck upon the top of the rock three or four hundred feet directly over our heads, and leaning their waving tops far over the rolling waters, would seem to look down upon us with the most threatening aspect. Conical formations of rocks from thirty to one hundred feet high appeared, peering up out of the water, resembling in form the huge Haystacks of a Connecticut farmers. As we passed along at the base of these grand abutments of nature, swarms of swallows far above our heads, were delightfully playing around the holes and crevices of the precipice, in which they had built their nests.

At twelve o’clock, we passed a low point of land which has received the name of Cape Horn, in consequence of the difficulty of the navigation of this part of the river arising, from the strength of wind which generally prevails here. Often, when it is safe running on all other parts of the river, canoes, on arriving here, are obliged to lie by, sometimes for days, before they can possibly pass this point. Indeed, the Cape Horn of the Columbia is more difficult to double with the pigmy craft which is used on this river, than the Stormy cape bearing the same Dame at the southern extremity of Terra del Fuego.

A few miles above Cape Horn, we came to a huge rock, which is justly considered a great curiosity. The mountains at this place retire about one half mile from the river, and this rock is situated midway between the river and the mountain. In form it is nearly round; is about twenty-five rods in diameter at its base, and rises perpendicularly on all sides to the height of at least one hundred and fifty feet. It then assumes a conical form, and gradually diminishes in size till it rises some two hundred feet more, and then presents to the heavens a broken surface of several rods in diameter, beautifully ornamented with a luxuriant growth of variegated evergreens. Passing this stupendous monument reared by nature’s hands in mockery of the works of art, we arrived at the cascades at sundown, and camped for the night, after having run a hair-breadth risk of losing our canoe and all our baggage, at one of the violent rapids below the cascades. Our men, consisting of two Indians and one Kanaka, were cordelling our canoe up the rapid; and coming round a point of rocks, it took a sheer out into the strongest part of the current, and began directly to fill with water. My Indian boy, Sampson, was the only one that had hold of the rope, and such was the strength of the current against the canoe, that he could not hold on to the rope with his hands; and being about to be pulled from the rocks into the river, he grasped the rope between his teeth, and falling down upon the rocks, held fast to them with his hands, and in that manner succeeded in bringing the canoe back to the shore, with no other damage being done, than the wetting of our provisions and bedding.

When we retired to rest, wrapped in our wet blankets, we were reminded of a little incident in the experience of Mr. Townsend, a naturalist, who traveled down this river several years before. It had rained severely all day, and every article he had, bedding, wardrobe, provisions and all, were thoroughly drenched. He rolled himself in his wet blankets and lay down to sleep, thinking of the last words of his dying grandmother, "Be careful and never sleep in damp sheets."

Tuesday, 2d. From the effects of the wind upon the water and the sand, filling the air with the latter as snow in a February storm in Western New York, and raising the former into high waves, we were obliged to lie quiet in our camp. Occasionally, however, we ventured out to the shore of the Columbia, contemplating her majesty, as she pours her exhaustless flood down the ledge of rocks which forms the beautiful cascades. The river here falls in continued rapids for three miles, not less than fifty feet. That portion of the rapids properly called the cascades, presents an appearance of grandeur and sublimity not inferior to that of the rapids of the Niagara river, above the great cataract. At this place the Columbia rushes through the cascade range of mountains, and the channel through which it pours its mighty torrent, appears not more than thirty rods wide, while each shore presents indubitable evidence that, by a vast accumulation of water above, these mountain barriers were torn asunder, and thus this mighty river found its way to the Pacific ocean. The Indians here have a tradition that, a long time ago, the mountain was joined together over the river, and that the river performed a subterraneous passage for some distance, with a slow current, and that their people used to pass up and down with their canoes without difficulty; but all at once the foundations of this mighty arch crumbled beneath their ponderous weight, and the whole mass came tumbling into the river, filling, up the channel and quite damming up the stream, and thus were formed the beautiful cascades. The probability is that this tradition is true only in part. Doubtless the time was when there were no cascades here, and they were probably formed by the mountain’s sliding into the river in tremendous avalanches, and thus filling up the channel. The land on each side of the river at this place is rough and sterile, and the scenery wild beyond description. The cascades are fifty miles above Vancouver, and one hundred and forty-five from the mouth of the Columbia.

At three, p. m., the wind lulling, we proceeded up ten miles and camped for the night, which was exceedingly windy, with some rain. Found the river wide above the cascades, with little current, and, front appearances, were convinced that the Indian tradition concerning the failing in of the mountain, is not without foundation. The original channel appears to have been very narrow, compared with the present width of the river. Forests which were situated on its former banks, have been overflown, and a vast number of stumps and trees which have not yet wasted away, stand in the present bed the stream.

Wednesday, 3d. Continued our voyage, but at noon were obliged to lay by in consequence of the rise of the wind.

Anxious to make headway, we continued out after, the wind had increased to a strong gale. We passe a number of dangerous points, where the shore was precipitous and "iron bound;" but the wind being directly astern, and having a blanket rigged for a sail, we darted past them like an arrow, though the waves ran so high that they threatened every moment to engulph us. In passing the last point before we came to shore, we run a very great hazard of losing our canoe and baggage, if not our lives. A canoe much larger than ours, with five Indians, had just passed the point, and barely escaped. Running their canoe into a little bay just above, they hurried back along the shore, and arrived at the point just as we did, expecting to see our little canoe driven against the shelving rocks, by the violence of the winds and waves, and dashed to pieces. But with amazing swiftness, and in fearful proximity, we shot by the dangerous point, realizing no other damage than a wetting, and a fright. As for myself, when we were tossed in our feather-like craft over these Atlantic waves, and driven with such violence so near the frowning rocks that I could touch them with my hand as we were shooting by, and my heart beating so violently that it sounded like the grunting of a black grouse in the top of a fir-tree, I thought I had much rather be on terra firma; so mooring our canoe in a little cove, we waited for the wind to fall. Resuming our voyage towards evening, we ran a few miles, and camped for the night.

Thursday, 4th. Arrived at the Dalls, and found our friends well and prospering. Here reside Rev. Daniel Lee, one of the pioneer missionaries to Oregon, Rev. H. K. W. Perkins, and Mr. H. B. Brewer. They are laboring to establish a permanent mission at this place for the benefit of the Indians, but with doubtful success.

The country around is much better than I expected to find. In the vicinity of the mission the land is exceedingly fertile, and the scenery is most delightful.

Soon after we arrived, about twenty Indians came to the house of Mr. Brewer, where we stopped, to have a talk with Dr. White. When he was up, the winter before, he prevailed on these Indians to organize themselves into a kind of government. One high chief, and three subordinates were elected; laws were enacted, and the penalties annexed were whippings more or less severe, according to the nature of the crime. The chiefs had found much difficulty in enforcing the laws. In punishing delinquents some of the Indians resisting, even to the point of the knife.

The chiefs, who were appointed through the influence of Dr. White, were desirous that these regulations should continue, evidently because they placed the people under their absolute control, and gave, them the power to regulate their intercourse with the whites, and with the other Indian tribes. But the other influential men who were not in office, desired to know of Dr. White, of what benefit this shipping system was going to be to them. They said they, were willing it should continue, provided they were to receive blankets, shirts and pants, as a reward for being whipped. They had been whipped a good many times, and had got nothing for it, and it had done them no good. If this state of things was to continue, it was all (cultus) good for nothing, and In-reply they were told not be detained to settle that we were going farther in a very great hurry; and that when we returned he would endeavor to make all straight. But he wished them to understand that they need not expect pay for being flogged, when they deserved it. They laughed heartily at the idea, and dispersed, giving us an opportunity to make arrangements for the continuance of our journey.

We left our canoe at the Dalls in the care of an Indian, and engaged eight horses of an old Indian, by the name of Canasissa, who was to bring them to us the following morning.

Friday 5th. Canasissa arrived early in the morning, and coming to us with a very long face, inquired what we were going to give him to accompany us, as he wished to see that the horses were well used. The Doctor replied, "You are a very old man; the journey is long, and the Indians are very silex, (angry); you may get into difficulty; you had better stay at home." Still Canasissa insisted on going, but was told that if he went he must go for nothing. He then said that he had brought but seven horses, and thought that we did not give only enough to pay for the seven, but be should have brought the eighth if he could have found it. He was told that we must have the eighth. "Yes." said Canasissa, "You may have the eighth, if you will give me one blanket more in addition to what you were to give me." But we peremptorily refused to take any without the whole, according to agreement; and went about negotiating with another Indian to supply us with horses. When Canasissa saw that we were about to succeed with the other one, he altered his tone, and came up to us saying that it was very good for us not to pay another blanket; that he would bring the other horse, and would go with us himself. Taking him at his offer, we made arrangements also with Rev. H. K. W. Perkins to accompany us.

Horses ready, saddles all on, and bridles, consisting of hide-rope, tied to the horse’s lower jaw, with our baggage provisions, &c., packed on the backs of two of the horses, we mounted, and left the mission at eleven o’clock. Four miles brought us to the great Dalls, and here Canasissa brought us the eighth horse, and acknowledged that the object he had in view in not bringing it to us in the first place, was to extort from us an additional blanket, a trick quite characteristic of these Indians, who seem instinctively to embrace every opportunity that presents itself, to overreach those who, in any measure, are dependent upon them. I was peculiarly struck, while we were negotiating with them, with s a their astonishing tact in cheating. A matter of course, lying has much to do in their system of trade, and he is the best fellow who can tell the biggest lie, make men belie ve it, and practice the greatest deception. A few years ago a great religious excitement prevailed among these Indians, and nearly the whole tribe, consisting of upwards of a thousand, professed to be converted were baptized, and received into the Christian church; but they have nearly all relapsed into their former state, with the exception that many of them still keep up the outward forms of religion. Their religion appears to be more of the head than of the heart, an though they are exceedingly vicious, yet doubtless they would be much worse than they are but for the restraining influences exerted upon them by the missionaries.

They are known by the name of the Wasco Indians, and they call their country round the Dalls, Wascopam. They claim the country extending from the cascades up to the. falls of the Columbia, the distance of about fifty miles. "La Dallas," or the narrows, as the word signifies in English, are somewhat remarkable. Here the Columbia suddenly contracts into a very narrow channel, and then rushes through a mighty gorge or chasm in the rocks, with fearful violence, in its passage tumbling and boiling and roaring, and ever and anon forming the most tremendous whirlpools. Yet the Hudson’s Bay Company’s boats are frequently made to run these frightful narrows, and it is not uncommon for them to pay for their rashness with the loss of boat, and a sacrifice of a number of their men.

Just below the Dalls, where the current continues to be strong, is a little island, used by the Indians as a place of deposit for the dead. There is something peculiar in their manner of sepulture. The dead are, taken to a small house, built on this island for the purpose, and laid in a pile around the inside of the house, the head next to the wall, and the feet towards the center of the building. Here hundreds have been deposited, forming a pile several feet high.

The country around the Dalls is valuable, in consequence of its adaptation to grazing and farming purposes, and the extensive salmon fishery which might here be established. These Indians, with most of the tribes of Oregon, are destined to utter extinction, and the time is not far distant when their country will be occupied by’ the descendants of the Pilgrims.

At two o’clock, we left the Dalls, and seven miles brought us to the shoots, or falls of the Columbia, which at this stage of the water, are about ten feet perpendicular, but in June, when the river is high, the water sets back from the Dalls so that there are no falls to be seen. Arrived at the river "De Shoots" at five, p. m., ten miles above the Dalls, and three above the falls of the Columbia. This river rises among the mountains which divide the Wallamette and the Walla-Walla countries, called the Cascade Range, and taking a north-easterly, course and watering a fertile valley, it forms a number of beautiful cataracts and cascades. It falls into the Columbia one hundred and ninety miles from its mouth. Probably it derives its name from the fact that it possesses numerous falls, and finally rushes down a ledge of rocks into the Columbia with great violence. We found it very difficult to cross; but with the help of a few Walla-Walla Indians whom we found here, and a couple of scoop-shovel canoes, we succeeded in crossing without accident, though, to the inexperienced, it would have been considered an enterprise of great peril. But the crossing was not so difficult as it was to satisfy the Indians who assisted us. They wanted all we had, even the clothes on our backs; but we paid them what we pleased, and repacking our animals, continued on five miles farther, camping for the night beside a small rivulet and under the lee of a sanddrift thirty feet high. Sometimes, in the valley of the Columbia, the wind is so strong that the sand is driven about like snow, the air is full of it, and woe be to the eyes that are compelled to meet the beating storm.

May 6th. Journeyed on, and at eleven, A. M., came to a stream of water which has received the name of John Day’s river. It is about twenty rods wide at its mouth, too deep to ford, but easily crossed by swimming, in consequence of its having but little current. It derived its cognomen from a remarkable circumstance in the history of the gentleman whose name it bears.

John Day was a native of Kentucky, and though a man of some fortune, and considerable talents, and might have lived in affluence and ease in his native country, yet, from choice, he abandoned all the endearments of civilized life, and became a rambler in the savage wilds of the Rocky mountains and Oregon. When Wilson Price Hunt performed his astonishing journey from Missouri to the mouth of the Columbia river, John Day was one of his most faithful and persevering companion,, and suffered with him the most surprising hardships. Excelling in the qualifications of a hunter, and faithful to the trusts committed to him, responsibilities were thrown upon him during that perilous journey which proved more than he was able to bear. At Astoria he was appointed to accompany Robert Stewart back to Missouri, on business of importance, but had not proceeded far up the Columbia before he became restless and, uneasy, and finally gave evident signs of insanity. On the evening of the second of July, 1813, he attempted to destroy himself, but being disarmed, he sank into quiet and professed remorse. He pretended to sleep, but just before daylight he sprang up, siezed a pair of loaded pistols, and endeavored to blow out his own brains, but he held the pistols too high, and the balls passed over his head. He was then secured so that he could not harm himself, and sent back to Astoria. This event happened in the vicinity of this river. He was taken back from this point in hopes that he might recover, but his constitution was entirely broken; he lingered for a number of months, and died, evidently from the effects of the hardships he had endured.

Dined on the bank of this river, and conversed on the perilous adventures of the mountaineers; then resumed our wearisome journey, but found little to interest us, or to break the monotony of the scenery along the Columbia. In the afternoon, however, we were entertained with the appearance of a flock of sandhill cranes, numbering, at least, two thousand, which passed directly over our heads, on their passage to the mouth. Two large rattlesnakes placed themselves in our path; we examined them for a moment, and then "bruised their heads." A few small trees also, the like of which I have never seen in any country, were objects of curiosity. We passed a few score of Indians during the day, but they manifested no signs of hostility, and at night encamped for the Sabbath about midway between the Dalls and fort Walla-Walla.

Sabbath, May 7th, was an exceedingly windy day, and we found it much more pleasant to continue in camp, than it would have been to travel. Indeed, I have seldom looked for the day of rest more anxiously than I did the last part of the week past. Though we made only about one hundred and fifty miles during the week, yet, from the constant labor resulting from our mode of traveling, we had become exceedingly fatigued, and the day in which we are to perform no servile work, was most thankfully welcomed. Though we were doomed to spend it for from the abodes of civilized man, yet it brought with it the most delightful associations. It reminded me not only of the completion of the work of creation, when the morning stars sang together, and all the sons of God shouted for joy, but my mind was carried back to him, who, "though he was rich, yet for our sakes be-came poor, that we through his poverty might be made rich." I saw him in my contemplations amidst all the scenes of labor and suffering through which he was called to pass. The garden of Gethsemene, the judgment hall, the bloody summit of Calvary, and the crimsoned cross, passed in review before me. I heard the Saviour of men. while his blood was pouring forth as from a high and lofty altar to satisfy the demands of offended justice, when he looked around upon his murderers and cried out, "It is finished." It was not fancy; faith brought the Saviour near, and looked upon him when he bowed his head upon his breast and gave up the ghost. From the summit of the blood-stained mountains, I followed him to the sepulchre, and here I saw my Saviour under the dominion of the grave, a captive to the king of terrors. But the third morning drew near, and the sun that sat in blood, arose in glory. The crucified Redeemer, triumphant over death, and leading captivity captive, received gifts for men.

"He rises who mankind has bought,

With sweat and blood extreme,

‘Twas great to speak a world from nought,

‘Twas greater to redeem."

Monday, 8th. Arose invigorated in body and mind, and invoking the Divine blessing upon us in our future trials, packed our animals and wound our way along up the numerous turns of the Columbia. The trail runs in the deep valley of the river along the shore; this makes the route quite uninteresting. The prospect is entirely broken off by the tremendous walls of Basalt, which tower from four to seven hundred feet on both sides of the river. When this wall approached the river so as not to admit of the trail passing between it and the water, we were obliged to climb this stupendous ledge, traveling for awhile upon its top, then clambering down among the rocks till we regained the lower valley. While doing this we sometimes take alarm from the fearful crash of a detached mass of Basalt as it came leaping down from the summit of the precipice. This climbing, however, gave us an opportunity of seeing what the country is a little distance from the river. Nothing can exceed the barrenness of the land. Though the face of the country for a considerable distance from the river on each side, is agreeably diversified with hills and valleys, yet, as far as the eye can reach to the right and left, it is one continued desert of sand, gravel, and rocks. It is said that farther away from the river than we could see, the land is more fertile, and the grass abundant.

Having traveled thirty-six miles over this desert region, we stopped for the night on the banks of a beautiful stream called the Utilla. Here we found fifteen or twenty of the Walla-Walla Indians, exceedingly squallid in their appearance, and living on the fish they caught in the stream. These fish are a species of the salmon, and we succeeded in getting enough for our supper and breakfast. The land on this river is more fertile, and grows better as you go up the stream.

Next morning, at the rising of the sun, we left our attendants with the pack animals, and proceeded on ahead, determined, if possible, to reach the mission station at Waialetpu, on the Walla-Walla river, the same day. Passed Fort Walla-Walla at twelve, and arrived at Dr. Whitman’s at five, having traveled fifty miles since we mounted in the morning. We were received with great cordiality by Mrs. Whitman and Mr. Giger, Dr. Whitman being absent on a tour to the United States. They had heard we were coming, and were looking for us with great anxiety. We soon learned that the reports in the lower country about war, that had produced such an excitement, were not without foundation: the Kayuse Indians, among whom this mission is established, had freely communicated to Mr. Giger, whom they esteemed as their friend, all they knew concerning it.

When the Indians were first told that the Americans were designing to subjugate them, and take away their lands, the young chiefs of the Kayuse tribe were in favor of proceeding immediately to hostilities. They were for raising a large war party, and, rushing directly down to the Wallamette settlement, cut off the inhabitants at a blow. The old chiefs were of a different opinion; they suggested more cautious measures. Taking into consideration the difficulty, at that season of the year, of marching a large party the distance of three or four hundred miles through a wide range of mountains, covered with snow, they advised all the Indians to wait until they should obtain more information concerning the designs of the Americans. They also thought that it would not be wisdom in them, in any case, to commence an offensive war, but to prepare themselves for a vigorous defence against any attack. They frequently remarked to Mr. Giger, that they did not wish to go to war, but if the Americans came to take away their lands, and bring them into a state of vassalage, they would fight so long as they had a drop of blood to shed. They said they had received their information concerning the designs of the Americans from Baptiste Dorio. This individual, who is a half-breed, son of Madame Dorio, the heroine of Washington Irving’s Astoria, understands the Nez Perce language well, and had given the Kayuses the information that had alarmed them. Mr. Giger endeavored to induce them to prepare, early in the spring, to cultivate the ground as they did the year before, but they refused to do anything, saying that Baptiste Dorio had told them that it would be of no consequence; that the whites would come in the summer, and kill them all off, and destroy their plantations.

After Dorio bad told them this story, they sent a Walla-Walla chief, called Yellow Serpent, to Vancouver, to learn from Doctor McLaughlin the facts in the case. Yellow Serpent returned and told the Kayuses that Dr. McLaughlin said he had nothing to do in a war with the Indians; that be did not believe the Americans designed to attack them, and that, if the Americans did go to war with the Indians, the Hudson’s Bay Company would not assist them. After they got this information from the hias (great) Doctor, the Indians became more calm; many of them went to cultivating the ground as formerly, and a large number of little patches had been planted and sown, before we arrived at the station.

The Kayuses were principally encamped along the base of the Blue mountains, a few miles east of Dr. Whitman’s house; and after we had obtained all the information we could from Mrs. Whitman and Mr. Giger, concerning the state of things among them, we sent them word that we had come, and desired to see them. We also sent the chiefs word that we desired them to make arrangements to have all their people meet us at the mission on the following Friday, to have a talk.

The chiefs came to see us at Dr. Whitman’s, and told the story of their grievances, and said that they desired to have the difficulty settled. They said it would not be convenient for the people to come together so soon as we desired, as many of them were off among the mountains, hunting elk. As they must be informed of the meeting, it would be several days before the people could get together. We ascertained, however, that this wag a mere pretence. They had been informed that Ellis, the Nez Perce chief, was coming down to meet us on their ground, and this had determined them not to have any meeting until Ellis should arrive. But as we had learned that Ellis was coming with his warriors, consisting of several hundred—for what purpose we could not ascertain, some saying to make war upon the Kayuses—we came to the conclusion that the meeting of the two tribes should, if possible, be prevented.

While considering this subject, we were solicited by the chiefs to take a ride among the Indian plantations. Accordingly, a party was made out which would have made all the sacerdotal order laugh to contemplate. The captain of the party was a Kayuse chief, by the name of Feathercap: and of all the Indians I have seen he has a countenance the most savage. But, with this, there is a dignity and decision manifested in his movements, which might put many a white man to the blush. He is about five feet ten inches high; has a voice of the stentorian order, and possesses all the native characteristics of an orator.

His dress was quite fantastical, being composed of skin breeches, a striped shirt, which he wore over his breeches, and a scarlet coat gilted off very much in the fashion of the regimentals of a British general. His head-dress was composed, first of a cotton handkerchief thrown loosely over his head, then a cap made of otter skin over the handkerchief, and on the top of the cap, fastened with savage taste, the long hair of a white horse’s tail, which hung in ringlets down the backside of his neck. Thus rigged, he was prepared to guide us on our tour of pleasure. An Indian woman and her daughter joined our party, of whom mention has been made in another part of this narrative, The old woman lived many years with Thomas McKay, but he finally cast her off, and she is now the wife of an old half-breed Iroquois, by the name of Jo Gray. Her daughter is the wife of Charles Roe. They both live in the lower country, but were up on a visit to their relatives among the Indians. Their dresses were an imitation of the Boston fashions, but were much defiled by the smoke, dirt, and grease of wigwams. They were both astride their horses, the younger carrying her little son before her.

There were also three other Indians, without noteworthy peculiarities., Mr. Giger, who is a small man, mounted a donkey which was about the size of a Newfoundland dog, and exceedingly antic, just having recruited from a journey across the Rocky mountains. In addition to these, Mrs. Whitman, Dr. White and myself made up the party. Feathercap led us about one mile, across a low piece of fertile ground, when we arrived at the nearest plantations. We ascertained that about sixty of the Kayuses had commenced cultivating the ground. They each have fenced around a small piece of an acre, to three acres, and each on is entitled only to what he raises himself. They had in the ground wheat, corn, peas and potatoes. Many of the places were well fenced and well cultivated, and the crops looked flourishing. The Indians appeared highly pleased that we went out to see their farms, and told us they were very glad that they had been learned to till the ground. They have already learned that their livelihood, which previously was very precarious, by their little farms, is fully secured to them. This, they say, makes their hearts glad.

Our motley party proceeded in high glee, alternately conversing in the English, Chenook, and Walla-Walla languages, and remarking upon whatever presented itself before us. The little man on the hias tenas (very little) mule, was the subject of much amusement with the Indians; and in the novelty and excitement of our little excursion, the subject of war and blood was entirely forgotten. We passed pleasantly along, now crossing a beautiful plain, blooming with flowers, which sent forth their rich odors upon the breeze; now penetrating the small thickets of servill, chokecherry, thorn and rose bushes; and now fording little brooks of pure, limpid water, which came leaping down from the blue mountains, until we had traveled the distance of eight miles in a circuitous route. We then found ourselves very unexpectedly back to the point whence we started, all prepared for a consultation concerning the Indian war.

As there was a large party of the Kayuses and Walla Walla Indians encamped on the head waters of the Utilla, about fifty miles from Dr. Whitman’s, embracing some of the principal chiefs, Mr. Perkins was desired to go out, and invite them to come in so as to be at the meeting, subsequently to be held at the mission station, Not knowing the way, he procured an Indian guide, and started off with no other person to accompany him. Traveling through a beautiful country, well adapted to pastoral pursuits, towards evening he arrived at the Utilla, where be expected to find the Indians, but they had removed to another place about twenty miles farther off Inasmuch as he had no provision and no means of kindling a fire, and there being no signs of Indian habitations in the vicinity, he resolved to proceed to camp, though in doing so, he was obliged to cross the stream. He asked the guide where the crossing place was, and was told that it was just before him. He tried to get the Indian to go in first and see how deep the water was, but the Indian refused, saying he was afraid. Mr. Perkins then rode his horse in, but soon found the water so deep that the horse was obliged to swim. But now it was as easy to go ahead as to turn about, and urging his horse a little, lie was borne through the rapid stream in safety, to the opposite shore.

His guide, frightened at the idea of passing the stream in the same manner, could not be induced to follow, and making an excuse that he did not know the way, deserted him, and went back. Luckily, however, Mr. Perkins discovered an Indian not fir distant, driving some horses, and of him he learned where he should fine the trail that led to the Indian camp. He pushed on at full speed, and arrived there just after dark, having rode since ten o’clock in the morning the distance of seventy miles. Here he found three chiefs by the name of Tauitau, Yellow Serpent, and Five Crows. The last has recently professed conversion to the Protestant religion, and the first has become a Catholic. Yellow Serpent is favorable to the Protestant missions, but does not give as good evidence of conversion as Five Crows. Yellow Serpent is the principal chief of the Walla-Walla tribe, the other two are brothers, and chiefs of the Kayuse.

The son of Yellow Serpent was also with him. He has spent a number of years in the Methodist mission school, on the Wallamette river, where he received the name of Elijah Hedding, and where he acquired some knowledge of the English language, and professed con-version to christianity. Mr. Perkins put up for the night at Yellow Serpent’s lodge. Supper was served of dried salmon, after which prayer was proposed by Elijah. They sang a hymn, and Mr. Perkins led in prayer, and was followed by Elijah, who, after he had concluded, requested his father to pray. This ended, the sung another hymn, and prepared to sleep. Mr. Perkins having wet his blankets in swimming the river, had none to sleep in, but Yellow Serpent, taking his own blanket from his shoulders, gave it to him, saying that he had no blankets, but would make him as comfortable as he could. Wrapped in the Indian’s blanket, he composed himself to sleep.

The next morning, quite early, he called at Tauitau’s lodge, and was informed, on entering, that they had not yet had their morning prayers. The chief caused a bell to be rung, at the sound of which all his band came together for devotion. Tauitau then said to Mr. Perkins, "We are Catholics, and our worship is different from yours." He then fell upon his knees, all the rest kneeling and facing him. The chief had a long string of beads on his neck, to which was attached a brass cross. After all were knelt, they devoutly crossed themselves, and commenced their prayers as follows: "We are poor, we are poor," repeating it ten times, and, then closing with, "Good Father, good Son, good Spirit,:" and then the chief would slip a bead on the string. This was continued until all the beads were removed from one part of the string to the other. When their devotions closed, Tauitau said, "This is the way in which the priest taught us to worship God," but Elijah said that "Tauitau and his band prayed from the head, but we pray from the heart. Bidding them good morning, Mr. Perkins mounted his horse, and at evening arrived in safety at the mission.

Friday, 12th. As the Indians refused to come together unless Ellis and his men came down to meet them, we informed them that we should go up and see Ellis in his own country, but being suspicious that we intended to prevent his coming down, they were much opposed to our going. Explaining to the chiefs the object of our visit, they seemed to be satisfied, and we went about preparing for the continuance of our journey.

At five, p.m., all were ready, and we started off on a round gallop in a northeasterly direction and the sun went down beneath the waters of the Pacific. The light of the moon enabled us to keep along the winding trail as it led us over a beautifully undulating country, till eleven o’clock at night, when we camped on a small rivulet called the Toosha, forty-five miles from where we started. Next morning at sunrise proceeded. At noon encamped on another little stream, having traveled thirty-five miles. Rested for an hour, and continued our course through an exceedingly romantic country. At five, p.m., arrived at the Snake or Lewis river, where a portion of the Nez Perse tribe reside, headed by one whom they call "Red Wolf."

The village is situated on a small inclined plain, quite fertile, but the country round about is very rocky and mountainous. The valleys, however, afford abundant grass to supply the numerous horses owned by the Indians. Red wolf, in more than one instance has proved himself a friend to the Americans. When Capt. Bonneville was in this country, many years ago, in his trade with the Indians, he met with violent opposition from the Hudson’s Bay Company, and was compelled to leave that portion under the control of the company. But, in his attempt to do, he lost his way, and wandered about until he and his men were reduced to a starving state. Fortunately, he struck a trail that led him to the lodge of Red Wolf, and he immediately told the chief of his great distress. Red Wolf was moved by than story, and ordered a horse to be butchered without delay. Bonneville and his men feasted themselves to their entire satisfaction; and when they were ready to leave, they were supplied with a guide, and provision for their journey.

From Dr. Whitman’s to Red Wolf’s place it is one hundred miles, and having traveled it in one day, our horses were leg weary. Consequently, we turned them loose among the hills to remain till we returned, and obtained fresh ones of Red Wolf, for the prosecution of our journey. It was twenty-five miles from Red Wolf’s to the mission station among the Nez Perces, under the care of Rev. Mr. Spaulding and the sun was two hours high; the trail was difficult in some places but the horses were as light-footed as antelopes. Red Wolf had volunteered to accompany us, and crossing the river, swimming our horses in the rear of our canoe, we each one mounted the animal designated by the chief, and himself taking the lead, we measured off the ground with wonderful rapidity. We passed a number of small villages, and found the vallies which were fertile, astonishingly filled with horses. From one eminence could be seen not less than one thousand. But Red Wolf, led us on with such astonishing swiftness that we had scarcely time to cast a glance at the Indians, horses, rivers, mountains, &c., by which the scenery of our route was diversified, and which we left one after another in quick succession far in the rear. Just as the sun was setting we brought up on Clear Water River, on the side opposite the house of Rev. Mr. Spaulding. We had traveled twenty-five miles in two hours, and sixty miles since we dined at twelve o’clock. Hailing across the river, Mr. Spaulding came over in a small canoe, and took us and our baggage over, and with his wife, and Mr. and Mrs. Littlejohn, gave us a most cordial and hearty welcome to their isolated home.

Sunday, 14th. Some two hundred Indians, of all ages, met in the rear of Mr. Spaulding’s house for religious worship. They behaved with great propriety, and some of them gave good evidence of genuine conversion. Mr. Spaulding had received three of them into church fellowship, two of them chiefs, by the name of Joseph and Timothy; and thirty others stood propounded for membership. According to arrangement, these were to be received on the Sabbath after our arrival. Being examined according to the order of the Presbyterian church, and giving satisfaction as to their religious experience, they and their children received baptism, and they became members of Christ’s visible church.

In the evening it fell to my lot to preach to the few Americans who providentially had been thus thrown together. This is evidently the most promising Indian mission in Oregon.

Monday, 15th. Climbed to the top of a mountain, twenty-two hundred feet high, which overlooks the valley of Lapwai, and enables one to trace the windings of Clear Water, for several miles. We started a number of large rocks down the precipitous sides of the mountain towards the river, but on descending found that our sport was not gratuitous. Some Indians had just come up the trail on horseback, and a fragment of one of the rocks had struck a horse’s leg and broken it. But the horse not being very valuable, the matter was easily adjusted.

When we arrived, Ellis, with some hundreds of his people, was fifty and sixty miles off, and a letter was sent to him to come down and meet us.

Tuesday, 16th. Joseph, who is second to Ellis in the chieftainship, made a martial display of his band, in a little plain in the rear of the house, where he entertained us with a sham fight. We estimated the number under Joseph at seven hundred. Arrayed in their war dress, they made a very savage, not to say imposing, appearance.

Connected with Ellis’s band were some braves whom the whole nation delight to honor. The Blackfeet Indians have always been the deadly enemies of the Nez Perces, and of all the braves, none are honored so much as those who have killed Blackfeet. One of them, then present, has killed twelve with his own hands, taken their scalps and muskets, and brought them as trophies to his lodge. This he had done to revenge the death of an only brother, who, according to his story, was treacherously murdered by the Blackfeet. A large circle was formed around this brave, he occupying the centre of the circle, bearing on one arm the muskets he had captured from the enemy, and hanging on the other the scalps he had taken. He displayed, these trophies before the multitude, and at the same time, gave a history of the manner in which each one was taken. Ellis said he was the greatest brave in the nation, and they always honor him in this way. A terrible battle had been recently fought by a party of the Nez Perces with a party of Blackfeet, in which the former were victorious. This battle was acted to the life, with the exception that no blood was shed. The scene then closed with a war dance, conducted by a chief whom the whites designate by the name of "Lawyer," and in whom is combined the cunning and shrewdness of the Indian, with the ability and penetration of the statesman.

Though this savage "training" was more exciting than any martial display I had ever witnessed, yet it closed up quietly and peacefully, and as it had been conducted upon strictly temperance principles, all retired from the scene perfectly sober. At dark, of the thousand Indians present during the day, scarcely one was to be seen outside of his lodge.

Ascertaining from Ellis that he designed to go down to meet the Kayuses when we returned ‘with some of his men, for the purpose of inducing them to accept of the laws which the Nez Perces received, and with which they were well pleased, we waived our objections against his going, and on Thursday, the 18th, prepared to take our departure.

Here I would take occasion to observe that the Rev. Mr. Spaulding and his worthy companion are laboring faithfully for both the spiritual and temporal good of this people, and in no place have I seen more visible fruits of labor thus bestowed. There are few missionaries in any part of the world more worthy of the confidence of the church that employs them, than these self-sacrificing servants of Jesus Christ. Far away from all civilized society, and depending for their safety from the fury of excited savages, alone in the protection of Heaven, they are entitled to the sympathies and prayers of the whole christian church. Bidding them farewell, we re-crossed the Clear-Water, where our horses were in waiting, rode back to Red Wolf’s place, and slept.

Next morning sent an Indian out among the hills to hunt for our horses, and as we were finishing our breakfast, Which our boys had prepared for us, Red Wolf came out of his lodge and rung a large hand-bell, to call the Indians from the other lodges to their morning prayers. All assembled to the number of one hundred, an exhortation or harangue was given them by one of the chiefs, and then singing a hymn in the Indian tongue, two engaged in prayer. I was greatly surprised, in traveling through the Indian country, to find that these outward forms of Christianity are observed in almost every lodge. The Indians generally are nominally christian, and about equally divided betwixt the Protestant and Catholic religion.

At eight o’clock, a hallooing upon the side of the mountain indicated that our horses were found, and would soon be at our camp. Packing, saddling, and bridling were done in short order, and, Mr. Spaulding joining our party, we soon left the valley of the Snake .joining our I River behind us. Examining the country more critically on our return than when we went out, we found it to be indescribably beautiful and picturesque, sometimes rising into the romantic and sublime, and generally well adapted to all pastoral purposes. No timber of any consequence appeared, except on the banks of the streams. Crossing the Tookanan, and Toosha, we stopped for supper on a beautiful brook, called Imaispa. We found we had barely provisions enough for this meal, and two of us resolved to proceed, rather than go hungry all the next day. Letting our horses crop the grass, for an hour, we traveled on; Mr. Perkins and Mr. Spaulding preferring to remain anywhere they were till morning. At daybreak we arrived at Dr. Whitman’s, having set upon our horses all night.

During our absence the Kayuses had all collected within a few miles of Dr. Whitman’s, and were preparing for the great meeting with the Nez Perces, on our return.

On Saturday, 20th, Ellis, with three hundred of his people, arrived, and camped within a short distance of the mission. Wearied out by excessive labor, we put off the meeting of the two tribes until the ensuing week.

Sunday morning about one hundred Indians assembled at the mission for religious worship, and were addressed by all the Missionaries present. In the afternoon I walked out on the plain a short distance, and soon found myself on a little rise of ground, where were two graves, one of which was inclosed in a picket. Inquiring who was buried there, my attendant replied, "The grave inside the picket is that of the only child, a little daughter, of Mr. and Mrs. Whitman, who was drowned in that creek which passes near the house. That on the outside incloses the remains of Joseph, the Hawaiian who lived with Dr. Whitman a number of years, and, served him faithfully while he lived." This Hawaiian was a converted man, and possessing considerable talent he was very useful to the mission. Though he was a great lover of the Indians, and would do all he could for their welfare, yet, when he died, not one of them could be prevailed upon to assist in carrying him to the grave; but Dr. Whitman, and Mr. Pombrun of Fort Walla Walla, bore him upon their shoulders to the home appointed for all the living.

I returned from this excursion reflecting upon the severe trials of missionaries, many of whom are compelled to bury their offspring with their own hands.

Preached in the afternoon to seven Americans, two of whom came in from their camp, three miles distant, where they were preparing to cross the mountains to the United States. One of these, Wm. C. Sutton, is truly "a brand plucked from the burning." For three years he has been a living witness of the power of the gospel to save even the chief of sinners. He lived for many years in the Rocky mountains, and contracted all the vices common to the mountaineers; but abandoning the trapper’s life, and coming drawn among the missionaries in the lower country, he was powerfully awakened to see the folly of his former course, and after struggling for days on the brink of despair, was brought "from darkness to light, and from the power of Satan to the living God."

During the day, Nez Perce Indians continued to arrive, until six hundred people, and a thousand horses, appeared on the plains. The Kayuse and Walla-Walla bands united, forming a troop of three hundred men, all mounted. These met the Nez Perces on the plain in front of Dr. Whitman’s house, and then a scene similar to that at Lapwai, presented itself. The Indians worked themselves up into a high state of excitement, and Ellis said afterwards that he thought the Kayuse were determined to fight in good earnest. Tauitau, the Catholic chief, as he approached us, appeared quite angry, and disposed to quarrel. Seeing the excitement increase and fearing that it might end seriously, unless the attention of the Indians could be drawn to some other subject Mr. Spaulding gave notice that all would repair to Dr. W.’s house, for the purpose of tallapoosa, (worship), But Tauitau came forward in a very boisterous manner, and inquired what we had made all this disturbance for. We repaired the house, followed by several hundred, Indians, and after engaging in a season of prayer, found that the excitement had died away, and the Indians were scattering to their lodges for the night.

Tuesday, 23d. The chiefs and principal men of both tribes came together at Dr. Whitman’s to hear what we had to say. They were called to order by Tauitau, who by this time had got over his excitement, and then was placed before them the object of out visit. Among other things they were told that much had been said about war, and we had come to assure them that they had nothing to fear from that quarter; that the President of the United States had not sent the Doctor to their country, to make war upon them, but to enter into arrangements with them to regulate their intercourse with the white people. We were not there to catch them in a trap as a man would catch a beaver, but to do them good; and if they would lay aside their former practices and prejudices, stop their quarrels, cultivate their lands, and receive good laws, they might become a great and a happy people; that in order to do this, they must all be united, for they were but few in comparison io the whites; and if they were not all of one heart, they would be able to accomplish nothing; that the chiefs should set the example and love each other, and not get proud and haughty, but consider the people as their brothers and their children, and labor to do them good; that the people should be obedient, and in their morning and evening prayers they should remember their chiefs.

Liberty was then given for the chiefs to speak, and Ellis remarked that it would not be proper for the Nez Perce chiefs to speak until the Kayuse people should receive the laws. The Kayuse chiefs replied, "If you want us to receive the laws, bring them forward and let us see them, as we cannot take them unless we know what they are."

A speech was then delivered to the young men to impress them favorably with regard to the laws. They were told that they would soon take the places of the old men, and they should be willing to act for the good of the people; that they should not go here and there and spread false reports about war; and that this had been the cause of all the difficulty and excitement which had prevailed among them during the past winter.

The laws were then read, first in English, and then in the Nez Perce.

Yellow Serpent then rose and said: "I have a message to you. Where are these laws from? Are they from God or from the earth? I would that you might say, they were from God. But I think they are from the earth, because, from what I know of white men, they do not honor these laws.

In answer to this, the people were informed that the laws were recognized by God, and imposed on men in all civilized countries. Yellow Serpent was pleased with the explanation, and said that it was according to the instructions he had received from others, and he was very glad to learn that it was so, because many of his people had been angry with him when he had whipped. them for crime, and had told him that God would send him to hell for it, and he was glad to know that it was pleasing to God."

Telaukaikt, a Kayuse chief, rose and said: "What do you read the laws for before we take them? We do not take the laws because Tauitau says so. He is a Catholic, and as a people we do not follow his worship." Dr. White replied that this did not make any difference about law; that the people in the States had different modes of worship, yet all had one law.

Then a chief, called the Prince, arose and said: "I understand you gave us liberty to examine every law—all the words and lines—and as questions are asked about it, we should get a better understanding of it. The people of this country have but one mind about it. I have something to say, but perhaps the people will dispute me. As a body, we have not had opportunity to consult, therefore you come to us as in a wind, and speak to us as to the air, as we have no point, and we cannot speak because we have no point before us. The business before us is whole, like a body we have not dissected it. And perhaps you will say that it is out of place for me to speak, because I am not a great chief. Once I had influence, but now I have but little."

Here he was about to sit down, but was told to go on. He then said,—"When the whites first came among us, we had no cattle, they have given us none; what we have now got we have obtained by an exchange of property. A long time ago Lewis and Clark came to this country, and I want to know what they said about us. Did they say that they found friends or enemies here?" Being told that they spoke well of the Indians, the prince said, "that is a reason why the whites should unite with us, and all become one people. Those who have been here before you, have left us no memorial of their kindness, by giving us presents. We speak by way of favor. If you have any benefit to bestow, we will then speak more freely One thing that we can speak about is cattle, and the reason why we cannot speak out now is because we have not the thing before us. My people are poor and blind, and we must have something tangible. Other chiefs have bewildered me since they came; yet I am from an honorable stock. Promises which have been made to me and my fathers, have not been fulfilled, and I am made miserable; but it will not answer for me to speak out, for my people do not consider me as their chief. One thing more; you have reminded me of what was promised me sometime ago, and I am inclined to follow on and see; though I have been giving my beaver to the whites, and have received many promises, and have always been disappointed. I want to know what you are going to do."

Illutin, or Big Belly, then arose and said, that the old men were wearied with the wickedness of the young men. That if he was alone, he could say yes at once to the laws, and that the reason why the young men did not feel as he felt was because they had stolen property in their hands, and the laws condemned stealing. But he assured them that the laws were calculated to do them good, and not evil.

But this did not satisfy the prince. He desired that the good which it was proposed to do them by adopting the laws, might be put in a tangible form before them. He said that it had been a long time since the country had been discovered by whites, and that ever since that time, people had been coming along, and promising to do them good; but they had all passed by and left no blessing behind them. That the Hudson’s Bay Company had persuaded them to continue with them, and not go after the Americans; that if the Americans designed to do them good why did they not bring goods with them to leave with the Indians? that they were fools to listen to what the Yankees had to say; that they would only talk, but the company would both talk and give them presents.

In reply to this the Doctor told them that he did not come to them as a missionary, nor as a trader.

It was now nearly night, but just before the meeting closed a gun was fired in one of the lodges, and directly John, the Hawaiian, came running to the house with his hand up to his head, and the blood running down his face, and as he came into the assembly he cried out with great agitation, "Indian, he kille me! Indian, he kille me!"

John had been to the lodge for the purpose of trading with the young Indians, and the Indians became angry at John and threatened to shoot him. John told them that they dare not do it, and one of them instantly seized a musket and lodged the contents of it in the side of John’s head Fortunately there was no ball in the gun, consequently the results were not serious, though a hole was cut to the bone, an inch in diameter.

In the evening Ellis and Lawyer came in to have a talk. They said they expected pay for being chiefs, and wished to know how much salary Dr. White was going to give them. Ellis said he had counted the months he had been in office, and thought that enough was due him to make him rich. They left at a late hour without receiving any satisfaction.

Wednesday, 24th. Some hundreds again assembled to resume the business relative to laws; but the first thing investigated was the shooting of John. The Indian, immediately after committing the deed, had fled, but the chiefs took summary measures to bring him back. He was brought before the assembly and found guilty of the crime, but the sentence was postponed until they received the laws.

The Indians then continued to speak in reference to the laws, and their speeches were grave, energetic, mighty and eloquent, and generally in favor of receiving the laws. After all had spoken it was signified that they were ready for the vote whether they would take the. laws or not, and the vote was unanimous in the affirmative. Having adopted the laws, it was now necessary to elect their chiefs, according to the provisions of the law; and Tauitau was nominated to the high chieftainship. Some were opposed; a majority were in favor, and while the question was pending Tauitau rose and said: "My friends, my friends, I rise to speak to you, and I want you all to listen." He then adverted to their past history, and told them how much they had suffered in consequence of their divisions and quarrels, and then inquired if they would lay aside all their past difficulties, and come up and support him, if he would accept of the chieftainship.

It was now time to close for that day, and the vote being put, Tauitau was declared duly elected to the high chieftainship of the Kayuse tribe. Before the meeting adjourned, Dr. White presented. the Indians with a fat ox which he bought of the mission, and Mrs. Whitman gave them a fat hog. These they butchered directly, and feasted upon them till ten o’clock at night, when all was consumed.

Thursday, 25th. A number of the chiefs came early in morning at our request, to settle a difficulty concerning some horses which they gave to Rev. Jason Lee, when he first came to Oregon, Mr. Lee having requested us to e come to an arrangement with them, if possible. After a long talk, we succeeded in settling with them by proposing to give them a cow for each horse that they had given Mr. Lee. We found that the Indians always expect to be well paid for a present.

After this the Indians again assembled, and Tauitau came forward and certifies that he had made up his mind that he could not accept of the chieftainship in consequence of the difference of his religion from that of the most of his people. He was accordingly excused from serving, and Five Crows, his brother, was immediately nominated. When the virtues and firmness of Five Crows were spoken of, the people exclaimed, "our hearts go towards him with a rush." His election was nearly unanimous, and highly pleasing to the whites. of whom he is a great friends particularly of the Americans. He was so affected when his appointment was announced, that he wept. It required but, a short time to elect the subordinate chiefs, after which Mr. Perkins and myself addressed the meeting on the subject of the discovery of the country by Americans, their settling in it, and the necessity of living together on friendly terms; and then the meeting, which had been continued for four days, and at some stages of which the utmost excitement had prevailed,.came to a peaceful conclusion, and all went about preparing for the closing feast.

A second ox was butchered, cut into small pieces and boiled. It was then spread out upon the grass, and cut. into mouthfuls, put onto plates, pans, pail covers, and pieces of boards, and placed alone in the centre of a large temporary lodge, made of skins, and about seventy-five feet long. The people were then all called together, and took their seats on the ground, ourselves being conducted by the chiefs to some seats of skins prepared on the windward side of the lodge, so that we would be secure from the smoke, all, when seated, forming a lengthened ring around the food, three and four persons deep. Five Crows called the table to order, when a blessing was asked; then several Indians passed around the meat to all present, the number, as near as we could judge, being six hundred, embracing men, women and children. Fingers were used instead of forks, and the clattering of teeth and smacking of lips served as music while the process of mastication was going on. All seemed intent upon the business before them; laws, speeches, and war, were lost sight of, and the eating of the ox absorbed every other consideration. It was only necessary for each person to eat one pound, and all would be consumed. In twenty minutes the ox which, three hours before, was peacefully feeding on the prairie, was lodged in the stomachs of six hundred Indians. After the feast Ellis arose and said that it was fashionable among the Indians for all the chiefs to unite with the whites at such a time as this, in smoking the pipe, in token of their alliance and friendship. Accordingly, the pipe of peace was brought forward. Its stem was one inch in diameter, and three feet long, and the bowl four inches long, and two in diameter, and made out of a species of dark free-stone. Ellis passed it around, to the chiefs first, and then to the whites, after which speeches were delivered by Five Crows, Ellis, Lawyer, Brothers, Tauitau, and Yellow Serpent: a season of prayer followed and the scene was closed. Next morning the Indians all came to give us the friendly hand before we parted; and the chiefs informed us that they had sentenced the Indian who shot John to a punishment of forty lashes on his bare back. Thus closed our negotiations, and the immense crowd of Indians, taking their leave, returned to their homes in the utmost order. In the evening all was still, and, walking out to the camping ground where the fires were still blazing, I found but one solitary old Indian, who was boiling up the feet of the ox for his next day’s supplies.

Saturday, 27th. The forenoon was employed in preparing to return home; and at one, p. m., took our departure from Waialetpu. Mrs. Whitman accompanied us back to the lower country. Traveled fourteen miles, and encamped for the Sabbath on a branch of the Walla-Walla River, called the Toosha, near its mouth. The land along the Walla-Walla and its tributaries is generally very fertile, except in those places where it is strongly impregnated with sal soda. The face of the country is truly beautiful.

Monday, 29th. Moved camp, and proceeding a few miles, met the Rev. Mr. Eells from Tshimkain, a mission station among the Spokan Indians. He was on his way to Waialetpu and Lapwai, and thence home. He gave us an account of his mission, rather discouraging upon the whole, from the opposition arrayed against him from the Catholics. Leaving him to pursue his, journey alone, we continued on to fort Walla-Walla, and dined with Mr. McKinlev, who has charge of it. Here Mrs. Whitman decided to stop for the arrival of the Hudson’s Bay Company’s brigade of boats from the upper forts, which was expected in a day or two, preferring that mode of conveyance to riding on horse-back. After dinner we crossed the Walla-Walla river, and desiring to make some observations in the vicinity, encamped for the night. Towards evening I walked out alone to take a view of the burying ground of the Walla-Walla tribe. It was whitened with the bones of horses that had been slain over the graves of their owners, while here and there could be seen a human skull lying by the side of a horse’s head. One of the most singular cases of voluntary interment recorded in the annals of heathen superstition, took place in this burying ground some twenty-five years ago. There resided in this vicinity a man belonging to the Walla-Walla tribe, who, rising by his own merits, became the most successful warrior, and renowned chieftain of which the Walla-Wallas could ever boast. During his life, his people were the terror of all the surrounding tribes, and wherever he led them out against the enemy, he was sure to bring them back in triumph, bearing the numerous trophies of his victories in the form of scalps, muskets, shields, &c. These he hung as so many ornaments, to the sides of his lodge. Years of uninterrupted prosperity passed, and the old man saw his five sons grow up by his side. As they arrived to manhood, they strikingly resembled himself, not only in their tall, athletic and commanding forms, but also in their astonishing bravery and indomitable will. His word was the law of his tribe, and he had learned even his own people to tremble at his nod. His voice of command was never disobeyed, whether raised amidst the tumult of battle, the quiet of his village, or at the fire side of his own wigwam. He was justly proud of his sons, and saw, in the changeless affection they bore to their father, their love to one another, and their unrivaled talents, not only his own comfort and support in old age, when he would become useless, but also the continued prosperity of his beloved tribe.

But a cloud was rising to darken the prospects of the aged chief. His eldest son, the glory of the tribe, the heir to the chieftainship, was slain in battle, and the old man’s grief was inconsolable. But he had other sons, and around them clustered his hopes. His eldest living one was now the heir, and every way qualified to succeed him, but he had not ceased wailing for the eldest before the second was cut down; and then the third, and the fourth, some in battle, and some by disease. Now his youngest, Benjamin, alone was left; and the cup of the old man’s grief was nearly full. Bitterly did he complain of that cruel fate that had bereft him of his sons, and he found consolation only in the reflection that they had been great warriors, and every way worthy of their father. But now they were dead, and all his affections centered in his youngest boy. Surely, thought he, my only remaining son of five, as noble as ever father could boast will live to be my support in my declining years; he will be my staff when my palsied limbs can scarcely bear me in and out of my wigwam; he will close my eyes when I lie down to die; he will mourn over my grave when I am buried; he will heir my, property when I am no more, and as chief of the Walla-Walla nation he will follow in the footsteps of his father.

But disease was already preying upon the vitals of that beloved son, and the father felt his last prop crumble beneath him, as his son expired before his eyes like a person under the influence of some desperate resolution, he left the wigwam where lay the wreck of his hopes, and went to fort Walla-Walla, which was commanded by Englishmen, and told them of the death of his last son, and requested them to make arrangements to have him buried according to the English customs comply in with his request, the dead body was put into a coffin, the funeral service read, and the dark procession moved to the grave, the people showing the sincerity of their sorrow by bitter wailing and tears; but the old man’s grief was too deep thus to find relief. The coffin was lowered into the deep dug grave, and the bearers were about to fill it with earth, when the old man stepped upon the grave’s mouth and examined the dark abode of his son, then commanded them to desist until he had delivered a message to the people. With a countenance indicating a settled purpose of soul, he looked around upon his beloved people, whose wailings had already given place to a death-like silence, and commanded them, to listen to the trembling voice of their old chief, while he delivered to them his last speech.

He then rehearsed before them the history of his life, painting, in glowing colors, the successes which had invariably attended him in the numerous wars in which he had been involved, with the surrounding tribes; the splendid trophies taken from the enemy with which his lodge was adorned, and the elevated position to which he had raised the Walla-Wallas, by the prowess of his arm; and then with a heart throbbing with emotion he traced the history of his doting sons. He had sustained them in infancy; he had taught them to love and to obey him; he had trained them to be warriors; he had seen them rush bravely into the deadly fight, and bear off the palm of victory; and he had fondly hoped that they would have long survived him. But a cruel fate had robbed him of his boys; his last hope had perished, the sum of his prosperity had set, and left him surrounded with the darkness of despair; and he was now like a tree whose branches had been broken off, and whose trunk had been shattered to pieces by the successive strokes of the thunder-bolt. And then assuring them that no entreaty should prevent him from accomplishing his design, he announced to them the startling fact, that he had resolved not to survive the burial of his youngest son; and rushing into the grave he stretched himself upon the coffin of his son, and commanded the people to bury him with his beloved boy. A general burst of lamentation from the multitude surrounding the grave rose upon the breeze as the last command of the mighty chief was as promptly obeyed as any he had ever issued in the day of battle. Thus perished the glory of the Walla-Walla nation.

Fort Walla-Walla is situated on the left bank of the Columbia, just above the mouth of the Walla-Walla River. It may more properly be called a trading post, as it looks but little like a fort except that two or three small buildings are enclosed in an adobey wall, about twelve feet high. The company and some private individuals met with considerable loss, not long ago, from the burning of this fort, which was supposed to have been fired by the Indians. The land around is very barren, though the face of the country is good. The company cultivate a farm about three miles from the fort, on the banks of the Walla-Walla.

Tuesday, 30th. Rode sixty-five miles, but on the 31st, both man and beast were so fatigued that we were unable to travel more than twenty-five miles. During this day I proceeded on in advance of the party about one mile, and stopping my horse, dismounted, and took my blanket from my saddle, threw it upon the ground, lay down upon it, and instantly dropt into a sound sleep. There I should doubtless have remained for hours, if one of the party, who had fallen in the rear, had not awakened me, the others having passed within a few feet without my knowing it.

Thursday, June 1st. Arrived at the mission station below the Dalls, where we met with news from the lower country, ships having arrived in the Columbia River, bringing letters, goods and passengers for Oregon. As Dr. White expected to bin detained some time at the Dalls, I resolved to proceed homeward the first opportunity. Fortunately the brigade of boats for which Mrs. Whitman awaited at Walla-Walla, arrived at the Dalls a few hours after we did; and applying to Mr. Ogden, who had command of the brigade, I obtained passage in his boat down the Columbia River to Fort Vancouver. The boats were nine in number, each capable of carrying five or six tons; all loaded with furs which had been collected in the vast interior, and now on their way to the general depot at Vancouver, where they were to be examined, dried, packed and shipped for London. Associated with Mr. Ogden were Mr. McDonald, and Mr. Ermatinger, the two former being chief factors in the company, and the latter a chief trader, both honorable and lucrative offices. Sixty men were required to man the boats, and these were all French Canadians, and half-caste Iroquois.

We all remained at the Dalls over night, and on Friday, the 2d of June, moved down the river a few miles, and were met with a head wind, which soon blew to a gate, compelling us to put to shore, which we succeeded in gaining with some difficulty, breaking one of our boats against the rocks, in the attempt. Here we were detained for some hours, during which Mr. Ogden related some of his wonderful adventures among the Indians with whom he had resided for more than thirty years.

He was an eve witness to a remarkable circumstance that transpired at the Dalls, during one of his voyages up the Columbia. He arrived at the Dalls on the Sabbath day, and seeing a congregation of some three hundred Indians assembled not far from the river, he drew near to ascertain the cause, and found the Rev. H. K. W. Perkins dispensing to them the word of reconciliation, through a crucified Redeemer. There was sitting in the outskirts of the congregation an Indian woman who had been, for many years, a doctress in the tribe and who had just expended all her skill upon a patient the only son of a man whose wigwam was not far distant, and for the recovery of whose son she had become responsible, by consenting to become his physician. All her efforts to remove the disease were unavailing, the father was doomed to see his son expire. Believing that the doctress had the power of preserving life or inflicting death according to her will, and that instead of curing she had killed his boy, he resolved upon the most summary revenge. Leaving his dead son in the lodge, he broke into the congregation with a large butcher-knife in his hand, and rushing upon the now terrified doctress, seized her by the hair, and with one blow across her throat, laid her dead at his feet.

The wind continued to blow until nearly midnight, when a loud call from the pilot warned us that we must leave camp. Though it was very dark, the voyageurs were well acquainted with the river, and continued to ply the oars until three o clock in the morning, when they brought up a few miles above the cascades, to wait for daylight. In the morning proceeded to the cascades, where we were detained for several hours, while the voyageurs carried their boats and furs across a portage of half a mile.

The portage was made, and the boats again loaded, but still there were fearful rapids below, which they designed to run. Mr. Ogden preferring to walk across a point of land down to the foot of the first rapid, I volunteered to accompany him, and coming to an eddy below the point, we awaited the arrival of the boats. Soon the first came, booming around the point, and thrown violently up and down by the rolling current, then the second, and the third, and so on, till the whole nine appeared in sight. Only two of them gained the eddy, in one of which was Mrs. Whitman; all the others were borne down the tumbling torrent with fearful fury, and it appeared to us on shore, that they must inevitably be lost. One only was capsized, and its crew of eight men struggled hard in the mighty current, until they were all picked up by the other boats, some of them being quite exhausted, and one so far gone that it was with considerable difficulty that he was restored. The boat also, with all its cargo, was saved After this we were highly favored with respect to wind and current, and on Sunday, at two o’clock, p. m., we arrived in safety at Fort Vancouver.

Monday, the 5th. Procured a passage in one of the company’s barges to the Wallamette Falls; and the following day a ride on horseback of fifty miles brought me back to my own dwelling, having, since I left home, performed a journey of one thousand miles.