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TABLE OF CONTENTS.

PREFACE

CHAPTER I.

History of the Oregon mission, from its commencement to the departure of the great reinforcement, in the fall of 1839, in the ship Lausanne.

CHAPTER II.

Journal of a voyage from New York to Oregon--Time and circumstances of departure--First evening--Last look at the Highlands--Initiatory rites--Great distress--Sea--sickness indescribable--Fourth day--Captain Spaulding--First and second officers--Passengers in the cabin--Character of the expedition--First Sabbath at sea--Police regulations--A rich treat--Centenary meeting--Results--Vessel ships a sea--Wind increases--Tremendous gale--Worth. East trade--Description of the trades--Whale--Allowance of Water--Porpoise--Vessel--Amusing surprise--Astronomy--Northern constellations--Magellanic clouds--Interesting Sabbath--Land, ho!--Cape Frio--Lighthouse--Splendid scenery--Arrival at Rio de Janeiro--Historical sketch--Don John--Brazil independent--Don Pedro the first--Compelled to abdicate--State of the country--Foreign residents--Religion--City--Buildings--Missionaries--Slavery--Reflections.

CHAPTER III.

Journal continued--Departure from Rio--Rev. Mr. Spaulding--French Fleet Violent storm--Flying jib boom carried away--Dinner lost--Storm abated--Christmas--Heat--Doubling Cape Horn--Gale nineteen days--Under bare poles--Prosperity--Sight of land--Brig Andes--Arrival at Valparaiso--Small pox--Danger--Description of the city--Its civil and political condition--Religion--Superstition, illustrated by amusing incidents--Protestantism--Importance of Valparaiso--Adventures round about the city--Great discrepancy--Appropriate name.

CHAPTER IV.

Journal continued--Raising anchor--View of the Andes--Brig--Pacific Ocean rightly named--Capture of a sea monster--Difficulty among the sailors Spoken by a whaler--Captain Sawyer--Island of Mowi--Hawaii--Oahu Honolulu--Remarks on the Island--Oahu and its city--Sabbath--Introduction to the royal family--Interview--Anniversary of the landing of Missionaries--Visit to the Para--Battle ground--Kamehameha I.--Waiakiki--Valley of Manoah--Source of prosperity--Difficulty with the French--Arrogance of Captain La Place--Impression upon the Hawaiians.

CHAPTER V.

Journal continued--Departure from Honolulu--Slow progress--Fresh breeze--Coast of Oregon--Old pilot--Captain delivers up the vessel--Crossing the fearful bar--Deep anxiety--Cast anchor in Baker’s Bay--Rev. Daniel Lee--Chenook Indians--Clatsops--Ascend the river--Fort George--Run aground--Difficulty of ascending--Arrival at Vancouver--Meeting called--Missionaries receive their appointments--Sent off to their stations--First encampment in Oregon--Ascending the Wallamette in canoes--Turn Water--Portage--Champoeg--Horseback ride--Arrival at the Mission Station.

CHAPTER VI.

Exploring tour to the Umpqua--Preliminaries--Departure--Delightful country--Encampment--Amusing incident--Fording river--Mountain La Beache--Elk river--Umpqua fort--Indian tight--Frenchman in charge--Meeting with the Indians--Old chief Is confession--Hostile Indians--Danger of going among them--Resolved to go--Voyage to the coast--Indians accompany us--Interesting encampment--Indians on the coast--Meeting with them--Speeches of the chiefs--Results of the meeting--Talk to God--Solicitude of our Protectress--Watching--Presents--Departure--Description of the country--Return to the fort--Story of the Frenchman’s wife--Dangers we had escaped--Perilous adventures of the mountaineers--Tour continued--Mountainous country--Fording Elk river--Giant tree--Aromatic tree--Umpqua Indians--Head chiefs--Shocking story--Burst of heathen passions--Difficulty with guide--Settled--Fear of treachery--Confirmed--Request of We-We--Refused--Warning--An Indian can be honest--Unhappy results of not trusting him--Night Lost in a forest--Sabbath--Indians again--Homeward route--Fine country--Delightful scenery--Home.

CHAPTER VII.

Tour to Vancouver--Reception at the fort--Preaching in the hall--Business completed--Expedient to keep warm--Cold weather--Difficult navigation--The rapids--Forest encampment--Strange visitor--Affecting intelligence--Death of Rev. James Olley--My Mohican guest--Return home--Meeting--Fruitless attempt to recover a dead body.

CHAPTER VIII.

Another tour--Rock Island rapids--The Jesuit--Stormy encampment--Return--Hospitality--Story of our host--Mr. Cornelius Rogers--Party increase--La Butte--Lonely Sabbath--Arrival home--Mr. Rogers and party--Meeting at the hospital--Indian Messenger--Sad tidings--Great bereavement--Esq. Crocker--Call to civil duties--Thomas McKay--Great rain--Estate of Mr. Rogers--Return--Great freshet--Damages--Safe arrival home.

CHAPTER IX.

Panic--Indian troubles--Tour to the Interior--Causes--Precautions--Excitement increases--Mr. Brewer’s letter--The Sub-Agent--Expedition resolved upon--Opposed by Dr. McLaughlin--Departure--A squall--Ascent of the Columbia--Mount Hood--Romantic scenery--Sabbath encampment--Reflections--Remarkable rocks--Cascades--flow formed--Indian tradition confirmed--LaDallas--Canasissa--Negotiation--De Shutes--John Day--Sabbath Reflections--Arrival at Dr. Whitman’s--Interview with the Kayuse chiefs--Excursion--Adventure of Mr. Perkins--Party proceeds--Snake river--Red wolf--Laperai--Accident--Grotesque exhibition--Temperance training--Rev. Mr. and Mrs. Spaulding--Return to Dr. Whitman’s--Interesting negotiations--Closing feast--Homeward--Story of the Walla-Walla chief--Peter Ogden--Arrival home.

CHAPTER X.

Homeward bound--Departure from Oregon--Lost in a fog--Vancouver--Unexpected meeting--Night running--Labor lost--Dreary encampment--Sabbath--Pillar Rock--Fort George--Clatsop Plains--A whale--Entertainment--Embarkation--Detention--Great cave--Weight anchor--Remarkable escape from shipwreck--Driven back--Second trial successful--Voyage--Maui--Night danger--Arrival at Oahu--Shipping--English fleet--News from home--Rev. Jason Lee--"Hoa Tita"--Affecting separation--Admiral Thomas--Great alarm--Detention--How improved.

CHAPTER XI.

View of the Sandwich Islands--How formed--Volcano--Coral Reels--Names of Islands--When discovered--Singular tradition--Cook’s death--Population--Previous condition--Long and bloody war--Results--Missionary statistics--Effects of Missionary labor--Seaman’s Chaplaincy--Romanism--Kamahamaha III--Reformation--Singular custom--School for young chiefs--Influence of Missionaries--The King’s Cabinet--Important history of two hundred and seventy-six days--Increase of Cabinet--Paper King--Protection--Commerce--Whale Fishery--Productions--Society--Temperance--Destination of the islands.

CHAPTER XII.

Return to Oregon--Embarkation--Passengers--Horace Holden--Thrilling story--The whaleman--Voyage--Arrival in the Columbia River--Disagreeable navigation--Yearly meeting of the Missionaries--Appointments--Arrival of Rev. George Gang--Reasons for his appointment--Great changes--Mr. Lee--George Abernethy--Powers of the new Superintendent--Special meeting--Voyage--Laymen dismissed--Miscellaneous--Transporting supplies--Another meeting--Oregon Institute--Finances of the Mission brought to a close--Number of Missionaries returned--Number remaining in the field.

CHAPTER XIII.

Final departure and voyage home--Notice of Captain Sylvester--Arrangements to leave--Mode of departure--Vancouver again--Clatsop Plains--On board the brig Chenamus--Difficult navigation--Danger--Get into the Bay--Fair breeze--Exit--Fellow passengers--T. J. Hubbard--Wave and Devenport--Mode of taking a porpoise--Scarcity of men--Scarcity of incident--Pilot fish--Make land--Spoken by the English brig Frolic--Shipping--Arrival at Oahu--Reception--Review of the Mission.

CHAPTER XIV.

Voyage to China--Change of calculations--Embark on board the Leland--Accident--Departure--Cabin associates--The Captain--Rules to judge of character--The Island of Grigan--The Ladrones--Dangerous reefs--Gale--Bashu Islands--Spanish Possessions in the Pacific--Formosa--Chinese Sea--Ship Montreal--Ty-phongs--The Contending Pilots--Appearances of the coast of China--Arrival at Hong Kong--Reception of Keying--Review of the British troops--Sabbath disregarded--The Rev. Charles Gutslaff--Island of Hong Kong--City of Victoria--Population--Schools--Morrison Education Society--Morrison Hill--Success of the School--Rev. S. R. Brown--Churches--Missions--Where established--Missionaries--Climate of Hong Kong--Soldiers’ Burying Ground--Wesleyan Methodists--Short Voyage--City of Macao--Grand Prior--Bazaar--Temple--Camoen’s Cave--Voyage to Canton--Description of the "Provincial City"--Adventures in the City--Temple of Honan--Dr. Parker--Dr. Devan--Proclamation of Keying--Counter Proclamation--Flower Garden--Dr. Bridgeman--Great excitement--Danger of an outbreak--Thrust out of the city--Night excursion--On board the Leland--Things that strike the foreigner--Boat population--Pirates.

CHAPTER XV.

Voyage from Hong Kong to New York--Chinese Sea--Islands--Strait of Gasper--Java Sea--Strait of Sunda--Perilous condition of the Leland--Loss of cable and anchor--Ship saved--Sumatra and Java--Pulo Basea--Malaya--Indian Ocean--Cape of Good Hope--Cast anchor in Table Bay--Cape Town--Colony--Vineyards--Produce--Missionary labor--The responsibility of churches--Difficulty on board--Captain fined--His character--The supercargo--Mrs. Hooper--Adieu to Africa--Cleansing the ship--Man overboard--Splendid eclipse of the sun--Reflections--The Gulf stream--Coast of New Jersey--New York.

CHAPTER XVI.

Oregon Territory--Its geography--Boundary and extent--Harbors--Capes--Face of the Country--Snow Mountains--Rivers--Mouth of the Columbia--Columbia Bar--Channel--Kinds of fish--Timber--Climate--Summer and Winter--Fertility of the soil--Clatsop Plains--Bottom lands--Puget’s Sound--The garden of Oregon--Middle region--Upper region--Capabilities of the country.

CHAPTER XVII.

Oregon territory--Its history--Spanish discoveries--Measures of the English--Sir Francis Drake--Heceta--Isle of Grief--Bodega discovers Killemook Head--Discoveries of Captain James Cook--Captain John Mearlis--Cape Disappointment--Robert Gray, of Boston--First visit to the coast--second visit, discovers the Columbia River--captain Vancouver--Braughton.

CHAPTER XVIII.

Oregon territory--History continued--European nations involved in war--Pacific trade carried by the Great Republic--ship Boston siezed by the Indians--Land Expeditions--Captain Jonathan Carver--Sir Alexander McKinzie--Lewis and Clark--Project of John Jacob Astor--Captain Thorn and the Tonquin--McDougal and Concomley--Fate of the Tonquin--Wilson Price Hunt--Depression at the fort--Encouragement--Ship Beaver arrives--Declaration of war--Thompson and the north-west company--Ross Cox--Astoria in danger--Visit of McTavish and Stuart--Alarming news--Effect on the American company--Sloop of war--Racoon and Captain Black--Astoria falls into the hands of the British--Astor*s magnificent enterprise terminated.

CHAPTER XIV.

Voyage to China--Change of calculations--Embark on board the Leland--Accident--Departure--Cabin associates--The Captain--Rules to judge of character--The Island of Grigan--The Ladrones--Dangerous reefs--Gale--Bashu Islands--Spanish Possessions in the Pacific--Formosa--Chinese Sea--Ship Montreal--Ty-phongs--The Contending Pilots--Appearances of the coast of China--Arrival at Hong Kong--Reception of Keying--Review of the British troops--Sabbath disregarded--The Rev. Charles Gutslaff--Island of Hong Kong--City of Victoria--Population--Schools--Morrison Education Society--Morrison Hill--Success of the School--Rev. S. R. Brown--Churches--Missions--Where established--Missionaries--Climate of Hong Kong--Soldiers’ Burying Ground--Wesleyan Methodists--Short Voyage--City of Macao--Grand Prior--Bazaar--Temple--Camoen’s Cave--Voyage to Canton--Description of the "Provincial City"--Adventures in the City--Temple of Honan--Dr. Parker--Dr. Devan--Proclamation of Keying--Counter Proclamation--Flower Garden--Dr. Bridgeman--Great excitement--Danger of an outbreak--Thrust out of the city--Night excursion--On board the Leland--Things that strike the foreigner--Boat population--Pirates.

CHAPTER XX.

Oregon territory--History continued--Mr. Ashley*s expedition--Smith, Jackson, and Sublette--Rocky Mountain Fur Company--Interesting journey--Country explored--Independent parties--Boneville--Red wolf--Captain Wyeth--Opposed by H. B. C.--Results--Immigration for settlement--Character of population--Sources whence it proceeds--Enterprise--Portions of country occupied.

CHAPTER XXI.

Oregon Territory--Political history--Necessity of organizing a body politic--First meeting of the people--Second meeting--Exigencies met--Organization dies--Exploring squadron--Great excitement--commander Wilkes--Opposed to organizing--Subject slumbers--Sub-agent--Mass meeting--Old subject revived--Indians troublesome--Talk of war--Dr. McLaughlin--Third meeting--Government organized--Fourth meeting--Officers qualified--Laws enacted--Effect produced--New legislative committee--Laws revised--Alterations--Election of a Governor and House of Representatives--Peaceable state of community--Joel Turnham--Thrilling incident.