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Refugio County Press
Wednesday, May 25, 1966

Source:  Linda Schuenemann, Granddaughter of Mrs. Joe Sneed of Refugio.
Thank you, Linda, for sharing.

MRS. JOE SNEED REPORTS ON TRAVELS TO PARIS AND TRIPOLI

By Mrs. Joe Sneed

There are no sweeter words to a traveler than “tell us about your trip.”  So an invitation from the paper was readily accepted.

            After many misadventures, such as getting on wrong planes (even the CIA can’t accomplish that!)  and having passports and visas gone astray, we boarded a plane out of New York bound for Paris, France.  You literally fly into the dawn, which only a more gifted person than I could describe - with the rising of the morning star and the rosy cloudbanks.  Since most of you know Paris either from having been there or through reading, I will not dwell too much except to say I was enchanted and enthralled.  “Paris In The Spring” cannot be exaggerated, as it was beauty beyond description.

            On the flight from Paris to Tripoli, Libya, my son (Charles Sneed) said “It will be pretty much of an anti-climax”  but again I was completely taken in by all the strange sights and sounds, some beautiful, some extremely ugly and some eerie.  Most people are unaware of Libya as a country, principally because it is an almost new one, around ten years or so.  And until the discovery of the vast oil fields an extremely poor one.  There are still hordes of poor such as we never see, at least in our part of the country.  They live in huts built of every imaginable scrap, from packing crates to stray branches, with rocks piled on top to keep the whole thing from blowing away.  These are scattered  throughout the town and on the edge of the city.  Otherwise, the city is most beautiful.  It sits on the edge of the Mediterranean Sea, whose waters are perhaps the bluest of any other in the world.  I never did find out why.  The houses are all of limestone enclosed by a high wall.  And flowers of every description fill the yards, although they are hard to see except through the  one barred gate.

            The people are Moslems, consequently we saw no women except very few and all completely covered with “barracans.”  Only a small triangle over one eye was the only opening, the rest of the garment wound around from head to toe.  The men also wear a barracan but thrown over and around the shoulder.  They are a rather striking looking race - small and wiry with good features.  They are very religious and their call to prayer that in this modern day comes over a loud speaker, is most eerie, especially the one before sunrise.  It creates a feeling of “stillness”  that is hard to describe.  Their etiquette is formal, upon meeting they shake hands gently, then touch their forehead and chests with a slight bow.  If food is offered a guest never refuses, and the serving of tea is almost ritual.  Even on the side of the road you will see truck drivers at “teatime” sitting in their little circle drinking tea made over an open fire.

            On either side of Tripoli are two Roman ruins, Leptis Magna and Sabratha.  Both date from the years around 200 and contain the ruins of once beautiful cities filled with works of art.  Only the crumbled walls, a few columns and the remains of a vast amphitheatre are left.  Again you have an eerie feeling of oneness with a people who lived and loved so many centuries ago.

            Let me close with a word about the children.  They are all beautiful and on holidays the little girls are dressed in dresses made of local cloth that defies description - colors of the brightest including gold and silver brocades - all made alike.  And children are children the world over.  One day my daughter-in-law left me in the car and ran up to the company office for the mail.  A nearby Arab school let out and there were about twenty little boys stopped around the car.  As she came back out, they surrounded her shouting and laughing in delight.  An Arab friend with her interpreted their shouts as “Cowboy! Cowboy!”  She was dressed in blue jeans!  A Texas cowboy has apparently become a universal symbol.

            And again speaking of children, I had nine greet me in San Antonio on our arrival.  One said a little later, “I knew it would be just like Christmas when Nana and Granddaddy got here!”

 

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