Ozaukee County Documents

This document is part of The Wisconsin Pioneer Experience - University of Wisconsin Digital Collections.

This house was on this year's Stone House Tour June, 2008 Dr. Theodore Hartwig Home 1863 W64 N758 Washington Avenue, Cedarburg was home to Cedarburg’s beloved first physician, Dr. Theodore Hartwig and his family. The house has a floor plan which included a waiting area and office for Dr. Hartwig’s medical practice.

Theodore E.F. Hartwig, Letters, 1846 and 1851 (WHS) - Two typewritten translations of letters, written by Dr. Theodore E. F. Hartwig, Cedarburg, Wisconsin, September 25, 1846 and November 21, 1851, to his family in Germany describing his trip to the United States by sailing vessel, railroad, and lake steamer to Milwaukee, Wisconsin, and describing Cedarburg and Milwaukee. 30 pages of typed translations from the original German.

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The following is a translation of a letter written in German by Dr. Theodore E. F. Hartwig to his father and step-mother. This manuscript was found among the doctor's papers and preserved by his daughter, Mrs. Ida Hartwig Carstens, and his grand-daughter, Mrs. Agatha Carstens Maley. Since the manuscript was not signed it is either a copy or perhaps an unfinished original which for some reason was not mailed. Mrs. Maley can vouch for its authenticity.

Cedarburg (Wis) September 25, 1846
Precious Father and good Ida*:

At last, for the present at least, I have entered the haven of rest, so that I may write you in peace. I have for that matter, written you once previously, but that may have been a fine scrawl because during the first days after I left the ship, I was too nervous and spent to be able to write a letter. Now, therefore, I will tell you, with more calmness and understanding aboutmy journey by water and by land even if I am (as you will know) not the best of letter writers.

I had not imagined that my parting and farewell from you dear ones would be half as painful to me as it was in reality and at this moment, dear father, as I write to you and let my thoughts go to you and the family circle I am overwhelmed with the greatest homesickness, that I have had in all the intervening time. I had to pause because the yearning for you all, and the realization of the thousands of miles that separate us, overwhelmed me, and I have lived through a truly bitter hour. Now I feel strong again and seek to reconcile my self to the unalterable.

Bertha will have told you about the journey from Frankenberg to Cassel. I have partially forgotten about it because of what followed. I would gladly have remained two or three days longer in Urf, because it appealed greatly to me and also because I would then have seen Louis. On my arrival at Cassel, I was received in a friendly manner at Nobrandts, where I spent several enjoyable days, partly at Gerbers, partly at San Souci. I then had to make a side trip with Carl Kuchenbecker through the Senifartswald to Weisshutte in order to see Minchen Kuchenbecker once more, and carry out several of Hugo's instructions.

Through the good offices of Hartwig, I received at Barenfeld's in Cassel, exchange on New York which pleased me greatly because thereby all troubles and worries about the steamer, and also in Bremen, were relieved. Wednesday evening, June 10, I travelled on the omnibus to Munden.

I tried to pass the time as pleasantly as possible, and with fairly good success, since I visited a beer garden, the so-called Andreschen Berggarten, which has a very beautiful setting -- not only real good beer but also what please me more, a grand piano on which my fingers danced to my heart's content. The landlord, who had either heard only bunglers or had no understanding of music, whatever, declared emphatically that I was a good player, and after I had sung a little song for him, he would not depart from my side. Along with this I ate my dinner and enjoyed the beer which was really veery good, and when i asked, in the evening, what my bill might be, I received the following answer, "I consider that it has been a great pleasure to me to have had you here; you have given me such a happy day as I have not had for a long time. Should you pass this way again, do not forget to visit me." In spite of all my remonstrances, he would accept nothing and rather than hurt his feelings I resigned my self to my fate. We bade each other a hearty farewell and I returned to my hotel.

I had had a happy day and thought of you all, particularly of you dear Ida. What you would say were I to tell you of my brilliant performance on the piano at Munden -- I can see you in my mind's eye, on the ottoman, smiling while father sits in the easy-chair. How varied is the outlook of different people!

But to continue, on Friday morning I departed by steamer for Bremen. The countryside along the water is quite attractive, but not as beautiful as I had expected and not to be compared with the Rhine region. At four in the evening we arrived in Hameln, where we and our belongings were transferred to another steamer, on which occasion I nearly lost my overcoat, my coat, and vest, which with other things were tied in a cloth and had been left in the cabin of the ship.

The two ships lay about one-quarter of an hour apart and the things were whisked to the other ship by wagon. I looked everywhere for my package and could not find it. The porters tell me it is already transferred and I go to the other ship, quite chagrined. When I arrive the package is likewise not there and the ship is to sail at once. I ask the captain to wait until I get my things and go galloping to the other steamer, search in great haste and finally find the package in the first cabin. Whether some one laid it there as a matter of convenience or how it happened I do not know. Now I had to run back to the other steamer laden with the heavy bundle and arrived completely exhausted just as they were casting off. One must watch with greatest care if one does not wish to lose some of ones things.

At 7:30 that evening we arrived at Minden and tricky fate led me into a very common inn, however, I was too tired and too ________ so I lost all desire to look around for better quarters. I expected, at least to find rest in bed, from the noise and excitement of this dump, but when I raised the bed covers I lost my appetite to make myself more familiar with this bed so I lay down with my hunting coat for a pillow on a wooden bench with stoical indifference and with the thought that this would probably happen to me frequently in America. So I slept as well as I could until the following morning, and returned to the ship at six o'clock, which brought me at six in the evening to the ardently desired Bremen.

Arrived there, I immediately had my things taken to the "City of Baltimore" a hotel which had been recommended to me on the boat, but did not offer much in the way of accommodations, and started out at once to find the home of Linchen Kuchenbecker. Since I could find no directory in the hotel, I went without further ado to the theater. There in the halls, I met several gentlemen and informed myself concerning Theatre director Ritter in order that I might ask where Linchen lived. I told the gentleman that I was lookign for a cousin named Kuchenbecker and he dashed away and returned in five minutes with the news that Linchen sat in the theater and the he would lead me to her. he then led me through several rooms and passage ways and I head Linchen laughing the in the distance.

Presently we stood opposite one another, about ten paces apart, and carried on like a couple of lunatis. Linchen laughed continuously and clapped her hands and I was no better. We we remained opposite one another and carried on in that crazy manner for perhaps five minutes. My guide stook there with his mouth open and I wonder what he really thought about our mad joy. it must have given him an uncanny feeling, because when we looked for him he was gone.

Now began a recital and questioning so that I did not know what to say first. All the old pleasures, stories, happenings, etc., were again brought forth, and I was transported to the happy old times through Linchen's memory. I found Linchen unchanged -- the same happy child as of yore.

We then attended the theater where "Mother and Son" was played. After the show, I learned to know Theater director Ritter an old, but very witty man whom I liked very well. So we sat together a long time beside a good glass of Port wine, and late in the evening I went to my abode.

Next day, sunday, I had to do much running around with agent Ludering who ordered me to appear before him every two hours and then promised me something on monday. He probably did not know where his head was located because of the many emigrants who had paid for their space but had not yet had it assigned to them. You cannot imagine what a mass of humanity this was, all awaiting departure and whose experience was the same as mine, because there were too few ships on hand to load them all.

Since I was at liberty on Sunday afternoon, due to the courtesy of Herr Ludering, I naturally went to Linchen's where I was invited by Herr Ritter to the Bremer Folk (Schutzenfest) shooting festival, which was being celebrated in a neighboring village.

We rode with several other actors in an omnibus, which was like Oberon's** "carriage of clouds" because one saw nothing of horses or wheels owing to the clouds of dust which made us deaf and blind. Behind me, an actress who had lost her golden bracelet, was mutting the most heart-rending lamentations. Ahead, I heard the driver continually smack his tongue and crack his whip at the horses, which, however, did not help much becuase the unfortunate beasts had proably already made the trip a dozen times. In spite of a few knocks in the ribs -- it was a great journey.

Finally we got out, walked another quarter hour in the sand and at last arrived at the gates of the shooting festival where we had our lapel buttonholes decorated with red ribbons for which Herr Ritter paid very dearly. Here we found, in a clearing in the wood, an aggregation of grand temple-like buildings, richly decorated with flags and wreaths, drinking and dancing booths; beer, wine, and all kinds of halls; carousels, swings, organs, and many harps; the marksmen in green smocks and green hats, cutlass at their sides, shot and missed often; in short great preparations had been made, but had I only seen a joyful face or any carefree happiness; the people walked as if they were in a waxwork exhibition representing biblical history.

We sat in a drinking room and frank german gooseberry wine, and time hung heavy upon us pro patria until ten o'clock in the evening when we returned in the same state of happiness as when we arrived. I have acquired great respect for a Bremer folk festival where the privilege of wearing a red ribbon in one's button hole costs a Bremer a dollar per day. That is a very costly festival for the people. But I must continue.

Monday morning I had to do considerable running around to buy various things required for the ocean voyage -- a woolen jacket, a straw tick, various tin utensiles, wash basin, mess kit, coffee can, cup, etc., then, too, a bottle of vinegar, a bottle of rum, several pounds of tobacco, liquors, all of which cost more money than I had expected. After all this business, I trotted back to my dear Herr Lüdering, who informed me, after hours of delay, that I must wait for several days. I had learned that my ship, the Adler, (Eagle) would go to sea with the first favorable wind, and I told him that if my ship sailed I would remain here at his expense until I found another ship equally as good as the Adler and that for my protection I would appeal to the Senate. When I spoke thus to him he changed his manner, gave me a ticket and begged me to bring my effects to the harbor immediately where a coating ship lay which would take passengers and luggage to Bremerhafen gratis, and which was due to leave within a half hour. I could not get my things there any cheaper and decided to go to Bremerhafen by steamer on the following morning.

Then my evil star borught my land lord to me who advised me to ride on the coal ship because i eould probably find no space on the following morning and besides I could ride free of charge on the coal ship.

Since the fatal craft was ready to leave, i had not time to use better judgment and went aboard (for which I had to pay dearly). Imagine a space thirty to thirty-five feet long and perhpas twelve feet wide, therein eighty or ninety people with all their early belongings, the forward deck closed, except for a small opening for entering or leaving, add to this the presence of several boys who were scratching their heads with both hands as though they would tear themselves apart, and you can imagine the agreeable predicament I was in, which became more painful when I learned from the lone sailor that we would have to travel three days in this coop. Think I, alas, you poor head cheese (Schwartenmagen) now you're in for it!

But luckily we sat on a sand bar all Tuesday morning and I had the pleasure of once more setting foot on the German fatherland through the help of the sailor who for a gratuity of a few pennies rowed us in a boat to the shore. Here we exchanged all the pennies which we still had for wheat bread, rye bread, and beer so my head cheese which you, Ida, packed for me, again escaped my teeth and later did me a great service. With the flow of the tide we were floating again and after continual tacking, we finally reached and boarded the Adler on Wednesday evening, where we were received with great cries of joy by the emigrants who were already aboard.

Here we had some capital fun with an emigrant, a mighty drinker who was going to America to improve his circumstances, but who said he wished to have a good time before hand. He came aboard ship loaded over and over with bottles ofrum, then sent once more to Bremerhaven with the sailors and returned totally drunk. Since he could not climb the ship's ladder, the sailors quickly produced a rope and hoisted him on the great yard arm. Here they permitted him to dangle for a quarter of an hour for the general amusement of the crowd and then let him down through the hatch to the middle deck during which time he was wiggling like a fish on a line.

After all my things were in the hold, I went down to the middle deck to select a berth for myself. But I shall never forget the shock which I had sight of propetious lodging place; could I have been with you dear ones at that moment I believe I would never have gotten to America. My unfavorable impression was magnified because I had from Eden Trost's description expected a pleasing place belonging to me personally and providing privacy. Instead, I found in the middle deck (that is the large space which is situated under the front deck and lies half over and half under the water and gets its light and air only from two hatches one at the front and the other at the real) all around the ship's wall, hammered together out of posts and boards bunks in double tiers one over the other, and extending on all sides presenting the following conditions. The middle deck was about seven and one-half to eight feet high, so each berth was three and one-half to four feet high, five to six feet wide and of about the same length. In this space, five persons had to lie next to one another.

Fortunately, I found a place in the so-called "Rivitz", one of the spearated spaces of the middle deck where I was, at least, associated with fairly clean people, however, the bunk was no better than in the middle deck. After everything was stowed away and arranged, we drank our first tea, which we had to get for ourselves from the galley, with this we received bread, the principal ingredient of which was bran, and butter which tasted quite rancid. With a heavy heart I now retired to bed, but because of foul air and other uncomfortable sensations, I could not get any sleep that night.

At five the next morning a steamboat arrived which took us out to the open sea because there was not sufficient wind to bring us out of the Weser. We reached the open sea at about noon and again cast our anchor because it was still calm. In the afternoon the roll of passengers was taken, which is necessary because people frequently sneak aboard without paying anything and when the ship is once on the high seas, these stowaways must naturally be carried along.

On Friday morning a good wind finally came up half southerly and half from the side. Our ship made good headway and during the whole day we were racing with a steamer which could not over-take us. The wind was so steady and good that one did not notice the least movement, and on Monday morning at four we were already in the Channel between Calais and Dover. We could recognize the towers of both cities quite clearly. The English coast is really charmingly beautiful -- the shore is composed entirely of high white cliffs, and on these lie in colorful variation, glorious forests, meadows, fields, villages, cities, country homes, old ruins, and light houses; and the channel swarms with shipping of every sort and one does not know which way to turn one's glances.

Toward afternoon the wind suddenly abated considerably and in half hour the wind was totally contrary. The weather then began to be stormy and changeable and the passengers began to suffer.

It was now necessary to tack in order to prevent the ship from being driven backward by the wind, so the ship lay first on one side and then on the opposite, and because of the waves, one to two rods high, which rolled against her sides, the ship rocked so fearfully that a land lubber could not stand on his feet. Soon the consequence of this unaccustomed movement showed themselves in all corners. There was a retching and groaning that one became fearly and afraid. I kept myself on the upper deck where at first I was drenched by the spray of the beating waves, but at the same time felt real well, and the more the ship danced the better it pleased me. This stormy rainy weather continued for eight days, and what headway we gained by ay was lost again at night, to prevent our going aground on the coast.

On the second day after the beginning of this weather, I received my first patient. In the center of the forward deck stands the big life boat which is probably nine to ten feet high, on the top of which the ship's carpenter was engaged in fastening the henhouses, because the ship lay on its side so that the lee side was often only a foot above the water. The cover of the boat had become smooth and slippery from the rain, and the carpenter fell to the deck and had to be carried below. In the course of my examination, I found that he had dislocated his femur joint. The head of the femur had gone upward and was fast above the socket. I was ill at ease over the matter, because I had never attended a setting of the upper thigh joint. However, I went quickly to work and after ten minutes of effort assisted by several sailors, I had the joy of hearing the peculiar snap which at that moment sounded better to me than the best Strauss waltz. I then laid a bandage around his pelvis and his knees and had cold compresses applied and after several days he walked slowly about on the forward deck.

since then I have always had something to do, but especially many tooth extractions. There was a veritable tooth ache epidemic on the ship and I extracted thirty-five to forty teeth. Besides I had a suppuration of the proximal part of the left middle finger, a very easy forceps delivery, a Jew had pneumonia a few days before our arrival, and a big fat farmer girl had an advanced case of scurvy.

The stormy weather which I mentioned before, continued for exactly eight days and during this entire time we had to sail around in the Channel; at last on the ninth day we received a little wind from the side and thus got out of the bedeviled channel. From then on we had alternate calm and adverse winds until two days before we reached New York, where we had the finest east wind.

Now I must give you a description of my mode of living in other respects. In the first eight or ten 9days) I usually arose at seven o'clock in the morning, then I went to the forward deck where I scrubbed myself thoroughly with sea water, then I journeyed with my little coffee can to the galley to get coffee, which was heavily sweetened with sugars and a piece of ship's bread, (it consists of ground rye) with butter, was then forced down. then one had a pipe or cigar and lounged about until twelve o'clock. then, if one wanted to eat something, one went again to the galley with one's tin dishes; our food consisted alternately of salt pork, beef, peas, beans, potatoes, lentils, rice, rice dumplings always in the form of soup. this fare became so monotonous that I soon ate almost no dinner at all except for a bit of head cheese and when that was gone a piece of ham which I bought from the cook. Our evening meal consisted of tea and ship's bread. The food on this ship was really quite good, only the variety which one has on land was missing.

Best of all was the fact that I always had plenty of wine, even though I had not brought any with me. In fact, I soon became acquainted with the two helmsmen, who were both rather cultured and nice people, especially the second, Reuerman, born in Frankfurth. These two had opened their hearts to me since I cured the carpenter, supplied me richly with French wine by order of the captain, so they said. I did not worry myself as to whether this was true or not and accepted it as something earned. After I was acquainted with them and with the cabin passengers, I had quite an agreeable existence.

We had six cabin passengers, a merchant from Bremen, a witty jovial fellow; a young nobleman from prussia named Harpke, who became the one most attached to me, a big game hunter who had traveled through all of Europe and had a lot of money and who afterwards made the journey here with me; then a young pastor and his wife and finally a young lady and an elderly spinster, who later turned out to be accomplished gossips. Whenever the weather was reasonable pleasant, this group and a Prussian postal clerk who also had lodging in the steerage and I sat each evening on the deck of the cabin, which was built on the forward deck, and danced, played, and sang to the accompaniment of my guitar which I had unpacked. Along with this, we usually brewed a mighty bowl of punch, and so we often sat together until two or three o'clock.

After I became acquainted with the helmsmen, I no longer slept in the steerage, but with them. They had their room behind the cabin with two bunks. When one of them was on watch I laid myself in his berth and when he was relieved I crawled in the other berth. Every afternoon we had a siesta first with one, then with the other helmsmen according to which one was on duty. The cabin boy had to bring us several cups of excellent coffee with which we smoked a fine Bremer cigar and did some reading.

So I was as well off as if I had been quartered in the cabin, while all the steerage passengers, as well as those between decks, were soon infested with vermin. Once I almost became seasick from sheer disgust; when I recently had to perform the forceps operation I became so cered with lice and fleas that I scarecely knew what to do. I, therefore, went to the boat which hangs at the rear end of the ship and peeled myself bare, and after putting on clean apparel had hot sea-water poured over my other clothes, but all day I shivered from time to time as though water were being poured over my head. Since then I have taken care not to get more such unwelcome guests.

I had a great deal of fun fishing, which was done mostly with harpoons. The first fish we caught was a porpoise which is about six to eight feet long and rushes by ahead of the ship, in great herds. These fish have a snout almost like that of a pig, and when they swim, they shoot up out of the water and back again always in arcs and with tremendous speed. Due to the rapidity of their movement their long flappers seem like ears so they look very much like a pig. They are caught with harpoons. The harpoonist with his harpoon, stands under the bowsprit because they always swim close to the front of the ship. The rope to which the harpoon is fastened passes through a windlass overhead and when the fish is hit it is pulled up. In this manner we took five. Their flesh, prepared like beefsteak, tastes very good.

By means of the first one we caught, we took an enormous shark. The porpoise had been skinned and drawn, and had been hung in the water alongside the ship to keep the meat from spoiling. Near noon it became calm and presently it was rumored that there was a shark nearby. Everyone rushed to the rail, the harpoons were fetched and large hooks baited with prok were thrown over the side. The shark swam majestically back and forth alongside the ship then approached more closely, sniffed at the porpoise and then went off a short distance. Swimming with him above his back or under his belly was a little blue and white striped fish, about a foot long which the people call the shark's pilot. After a time, he returned and grabbed the porpoise. A passenger pulled it up so that the shark's head appeared above the water and the two tassled like two dogs over a bone yet the shark did not stop until he had torn off a good sized fragment. Then he went away and we thought that he would not come back. A quarter hour later, I sat with Harpke in the stern of the boat, when he suddenly returned. We called the captain and he began to lure him with the biated hook. The shark swam around it several times, sniffed at the pork and finally grabbed the piece with the hook in it. he scarecely had it in his mouth when the captain quickly jerked the line so that the hook protruded through the upper jaw. Now he was hoisted somewhat and two slings were fastened about his tail and so he was pulled up on the forward deck. Here he thrashed until he had completely entangled himself in the rope. Then a sailor went to him and slit his belly with a knife. He measured ten and one-half feet (Rheinisch) from his head to the tip of his tail

Later we caught a real young one which was only two feet long. We also caught a sun fish. It was rather calm when he was sighted. The boat was immediately unfastened. The camptain, the second helmsman and five sailors equipped with numerous harpoons got into it and went after him quick as an arrow. It is a very helpless fish, which swims very slowly and remains always on the surface of the water, because it cannot dive. It was soon overtaken and was energetically harpooned, and because of the fact that it had an exceedingly strong hide they hurled harpoons at it seven or eight times before it was securely held. What a pretty sight that was as the little boat danced about on the waves with the sailors in their red shirts, the flashing of their long oars in the sun, and the many swerves which they had to make because the fish turned and took off in another direction after every throw that strock him. They were perhaps a half hour distant and we watched through spy glasses. Finally we saw the captain do a real power throw, and then the sailors waved their caps in the air. Now we saw, too, how they halted and tied the fish.

It was high time the chase ended for at that moment a light breeze came up and if the sails had not been severely trimmed they would not have caught up with us. We saw the sailors exeert themselves to the utmost, but in spite of this it was perhaps three quarters of an hour before they reached us. They were fearfully exhausted when they arrived and trembled at every joint from the exertion. After they, along with their boat were hoisted aboard, the fish was also brought in. He was frightfully heavy because when lowered onto the forward he broke in the sides of the quarter deck. It is a strangely built creature, almost circular and quite smooth. Its length is about four feet, its height about three and three quarters and its thickness about one foot. On its back and under its belly it has large fins. Just behind its gill flaps, it has little flippers so that when it swims it falls from one side to the other and moves himself forward very slowly.

In addition to these we saw many other large fish, which it was impossible to hunt, because they were too big. Grampus whales and many other varieties.

Otherwise I think of nothing else worth telling that happened during our ocean voyage, because eventually life on the ship becomes quite monotonous. In the end, the tedium made me positively vacant and simple-minded so that I could do no intelligent thinking. It is really no wonder that the inmates of Pennsylvania prisons become crazy and simpleminded. All remnant of amusement was exhausted, nothing new occurred, and you can imagine how interesting life must have been. Two days before we arrived in New York, the long expected pilot appeared on board and with his coming we got a favorable wind.

On the second morning after the arrival of the pilot, we finally saw the long desired coast of America spread out before our eyes, splendidly illuminated by the morning sun. New life came into the entire group. The steerage paid its tribute to the sea with straw ticks and other articles which were no longer needed. Everything was again energetically repacked and Sunday clothes were brought forth. One who had formerly seen the steerage passengers in their dirty ragged clothes would not have recognized them again, so fine and noble had they dressed themselves. Before we entered New York Bay the wind suddenly died down so that we were once more becalmed.

In a short time a steamship came rushing toward us, to tow us into bay. The steamships here are built quite differently than in Germany. The engine stands on the deck and one always sees the iron walking beam, to which the connecting rod is attached, go up and down. The steamer halted near us and offered its services. Here, I had my first opportunity to get acquainted with the American trading spirit. The American offered to transport us for seventy-five dollars. Our captain offered twenty five dollars. The American immediately took off, but before he had moved fifty steps he stopped and requested sixty dollars. This was not taken up so away he went. In this wise he came and departed eight times reducing his demands a little each time. This dickering continued for perhaps an hour and I became quite disgusted with all this low trading. As the fellow came up for the ninth time, there arose a light breeze and he had to take his leave with the door slammed in his face.

Our entrance into New York Bay was perhaps one of the finest things I have ever seen -- no doubt this view of the land so long denied us had something to do with my feelings. The entrance to the bay is quite narrow, about one quarter of an hour wide. High stone forts with their threatening cannon, looked down on us from both sides. Beyond these the bay gradually widens, and is lined with magnificent country homes and gardens. The farther one travels, the more the bay widens, offering ever more splended views. Directly ahead, one sees the city of New York, which extends into the bay like an equilateral triangle, with its many towers and churches surrounded by a forest of masts from which the flags of all nations flutter in the breeze in coloful variation.

The city is washed by the waters of the Hudson River, which divides itself into two branches above the city and thus embraces it. We sailed into the northern branch, the so-called North River, accompanied by a swarm of small boats which had brought the agents of German hotel keepers, aboard. In all my life I have not heard such prattling nor seen such importunity as these fellows posses; they were after me, took, but I sent them off in a hurry.

We cast our anchor in mid-river because other ships must make room before we could dock at the wharf. This took quite a long time, meanwhile we had considerable company on our ship, mostly German, who were expecting friends or relatives. The first acquaintances I met was a son of Schade's Ede of the new alley and lower market, whom I, however, mistrusted somewhat because he approached me in the company of a solicitor and recommended to me a certain hotel at the best German establishment. But later I discovered that I was entirely mistaken because others also recommended this house to me, and I lodged there during my stay in New York. He lived only a few houses away from me and later he and I went around a good deal together in New York.

Since I and my companions found things too tiresome on the ship we went to the City in a small boat to a German hotel keeper (Wirth) named Bick. As soon as I felt the solid earth under my feet, I got a great appetite for roast and beer. We virtually ran through the streets to find the land fare which had so long been denied us. The first question put by each of us "can we get Bavarian beer here?" was answer with "yes" but how great was the difference between Bavarian beer here and in Germany.

But though it was bad, even the worst beer reminds me clearly of my former home. I moved as in a dream, in the upper market place, through the dark alley to the lower market place, then turned to Schaders Hans and in passing took a quick look at the store windows and sneaked out of the "Griesmerschen" gate into the club garden. From the garden gate, I saw under the pear tree, a blue print dress and next ot it on the table a white basket. I heard joyous laughter and emered from beneath the birches and pines -- there they all stand before me, the old familiar faces smoking their little pipes or contentedly drinking down golden rivers of beer. It was a delightful dream and when I was aroused by my neighbors, I felt very ill at east. I saw everything so clearly, every single house which I passed even thought I did not look that way yet it stood there in my imagination. i saw the broad cobblestones, the different numbers of the whiskey and liquor taverns, I heard the various voices of the people. My dream which I had with eyes open as though I were actually there, frequently reminded me thereafter of the poem by Chamisso, "the Castle of Boucourt", "I dreamed myself back to childhood (Ich träumt als kind mich Zurück).

I was soon separated from my melancholy and nostalgic thoughts by the joyful announcement that dinner was ready. Such an attack on the food I have never seen before. The people had to serve us three times. I regaled myself particularly with beef-steak, salad, and potatoes, and for dessert I had rye bread and fresh butter.

The mode of eating is here quite different from that in Germany. At seven in the morning one eats the same as in the evening. Roast, warm and cold, potatoes, usually fried ones, other like foods and coffee is served. Of breakfast and four o'clock lunch one knows nothing. At first it seemed strange that one fills one self so full of food at seven in the morning that one can wait until noon, but one grows accustomed to everything.

Because this hotel did not suit us very well, we returned late in the evening to our ship which had meanwhile remained at the dock, but before hand we took a walk along Broadway, the principal street of the city. Next day our things were unloaded and I had to remain aboard nearly all day, since it was necessary for me to be on hand and see to it that my belongings were all brought to light, and also because one must be present when customs officers make their inspection. The examination was very superficial -- I could have smuggled everything imaginable. On the ship I( became acquainted with a young Austrian physician, who had made the trip to America with a goodly stipend of travel money in his pocket. I went with him to a German hotel, where I found good lodging and food.

That evening I met Hug. Kuchengecker in a German hotel. He had searched everywhere for me and fortunately we met one another. You should have seen how happy he was. I, too, was very glad to see him. I now had someone who could advise and inform me in all matters. Immediately after his arrival, Hugo had found work with a carpenter from Gnidmar by the name of Freitag. During the days I spent in New York, Hugo escorted me about among Frankenburgers. We were at both Beyers, the sons of the Beyer on the "Rheine". They both have large bakeries, and are becoming wealthy. They inquired most particularly about you dear father, told about the cures you had effected upom them and proposed that I remain there. They would support me as much as possible and provide me with enough patients. I also met the two sons of Zurmuhe here, the elder works for Beyer, the younger has disposed of his meat market and has become a carpente

*Ida was his stepmother nee Ida Henrietta Charlotte Kuchenbecker.

**Oberon -- In medieval mythology was king of the Fairies.

Cedarburg, Washington County (Wis)
November 21, 1851

My dear precious Carl:

Do not take it amiss that I am so tardy in answering your last letter, because I am convalescing, and am still quite weak as you can see from y bad and shaky writing. I received your good letter three or four weeks ago and had it in the house at least eight days before I opened it, because the physician who happened to be there when I received it forbade my reading it, because he noticed that it excited me greatly. so I had to languish for eight days before I could give myself permission to open it.

I have been sick abed for twelve or thirteen weeks, first with gall fever which attacked my nerves so that my doctor, as I learned later, had given me up. And in the end I had ague. Now I am again quite well, but I must be very careful of myself so that I will not have a relapse.

I am sorry and angry to learn from your letter that you have not received news from me, and this grieves me so much more because you may think that this is due to pure neglect on my part; an evil star seems to reign over my letter. Your conjecture regarding the franking of the letter appears to me to be the only possible reason why my letter did not reach you.

There is now a regulation which provides that all letters sent to Germany by steamer must be prepaid to the European border. Now we sit here in the West and get mail after it has been detained in Washington. I have franked my letters, because I was of the opinion that they would surely reach you. Your _________ letter, I did not answer until six or seven weeks later which was very, very wrong, but was caused by the fact that your letter arrived in the midst of our honemoon, but more about that later. Now as to my mode of living here, to write about which is almost monotonous, because I have already done it so often.

Concerning my journey here I can tell you but little, because it has almost left my memory due to the terrible tedium I have since experienced. I went from Cassel to Bremen in three days, there I had to remain several days which was not unpleasant, because I spent the time in Linchen Kuchenbecker's company. Also through her kindness I had the pleasure of hearing Jenny lind. On the eighteenth of June (1846) I boarded the ship Adler, on the morning of the nineteenth we were at sea, ont he third day were were between Dover and Calais. Then a Southwester arose with considerable rain, in fact, miserable stormy weather which made us tack around in the Channel for eight days. After we had finally escaped from this odious sleeve, we were delayed for days by alternate periods of calm and contrary winds until we took the pilot on board and with him we receied a spendid East wind, and although we were still a considerable distance from New York, it brought us there in two days.

My life aboard ship was very uneventful and awfully monotonous. The frightful steerage in which I had purchased my berth, sight unseen, had the honor of enjoying my presence for one night only. I would rather have slept ont he deck than in this storehouse of people. Later I slept with the helmsmen who had a nice little room with two berths in the cabin which is on the upper deck. For this courtesy and comfort I could thank the stormy weather in the Channel. The ship's carpenter fell from the great life boat to the deck and dislocated the upper joint of his left femur. He was carried to the cabin and with the help of the sailors I was able to set it quickly. After sixteen or seventeen days he was again in the mast. Thereby I became acquainted with the captain, who said he would arrange for me to sleep in the cabin. However, I knew that every berth was taken and slept with the helmsmen. They had alternate four hour duty and so I changed berths every four hours. The second helmsman, a Frankfurher, became much attached to me, provided as much wine and beer as possible and so I had to go into the steerage only when someone there was ill, and then always brought back a large portion of lice. Aside from the capture of several porpoises, which tasted very good when prepared as beefsteak, and then a shark ten and one-half feet in length, nothing occurred that was worth mentioning.

On the fifty-second day at five o'clock in the morning, we had our first glimpse of the American coast, beautifully illuminated by the rising sun. There is probably nothing finer than the ride into New York Bay, however, one's appreciation is perhaps due to the sight of land which has been so long denied. The entrance to the Bay is quite narrow; about one quarter of an hour wide. On both sides fortifications with their cannon look down on one from well-wooded cliffs. Beyond these the Bay widens gradually and is surrounded by the most magnificent country homes and gardens. The frather one goes, the wider grows the Bay, and offers ever new and changing splendors; directly ahead one sees the city of New York which extends into the Bay in the form of a triangle, with its many towers and churches surrounded by a forest of masts from which fly the flags of all nations in every imaginable color. We entered on the north side of the city and went into the city as quickly as possible in order to enjoy fresh meat and vegetables once again, and you can imagine that our attack on these was not bad. I remained in New york for eight days, but saw little of the city, because the heat was too great. We had mostly 110 to 113 degrees Fahrenheit. On Broadway which is the princial street of New York, I saw two men fall down from sunstroke; one died instantly, the other was taken to a hospital. i met these acquaintances: Hugo ____ the two Beyers sons (B from the Raun) and the bailiff Zurmühl's boys. The Beyers were very friendly to me and asked me to stay with them and they would in the mean time help me develop a satisfactory practice. However, my desire for adventure would not let me accept this extremely favorable offer . . . . I have greatly regretted this. How comfortable I could be now instead of carrying the burden of this country practice among all types of people.

After a stay of eight days in New York, I started my trip in the company of three young people whose acquainance I made there. We traveled by steamer to Albany and by railroad to buffalo. Here we had to wait for four days, because the steamers were all over-crowded. We used this time for a visit to Niagara Falls. A little steamer took us there in a short time, and we landed on the American side. From a distance we heard the dull thunder of the falls, and several miles away we could observe the thick vapor which forever rises from it like smoke from a huge staw fire. To describe the beauty of Niagara Falls will proabably always remain an unaccomplished undertaking. For the grandeur of this spectacle does not permit itself to be captured in words nor can it be depicted with the paint brush. Man, the lord of creation, feels himself immeasurably small and insignificant in the presence of such exalted Nature, at least that is how it affected me, and most of the others who saw it were likewise impressed.

After three or four days we left buffalo and traveled over the Lakes in favorable weather. I might say incidentally that I expected these to be much more romantic, the shores are mostly flat, no sign of hills, and if they were not overgrown with woods, they would offer a very pasture-like view. Without mishap we reached Milwaukie the principal city, that is the largest city in Wisconsin, very picturesquely situated on both shores of the milwaukie River, which enters Lake Michigan at this point. At that time the city had but few buildings compared with the present; in 1839 there was only a log cabin, when I arrived (1846) the population was nine thousand souls and according to the last census this has increased to twenty-four thousand. The main streets along the River are all built up with fine brick houses. Where once the woodman in his canoe hunted ducks, there now stand the finest store buildings. The streets have been filled in by the removal of the ground from nearby hills. The city already has a railroad and five plank roads which bring her the products and the trade of the more remote districts.

I remained in Milwaukie about furteen days and during this time (manuscript damaged), we planned a trip to visit a certain (Dr.) Lüning* with whom we had become acquainted. He had the notion of building a mill on the Cedar River (Cedar Creek), a stream which flows into the Milwaukee River. We used his invitation to get up a hunting party and roamed around for three days and three nights during which time we lived on doves and grouse until we finally arrived in Cedarburg.

This little place consisted at that of a newly erected flour mill, a store, a hotel, and three log houses. naturally, we went to the hotel to refresh ourselves with a noon meal and to enquire about Lüning. The landlord, a Kurbesse from Rotenburg**, asked about our circumstances and when he heard that I was a physician, he advised me to settle down here, because many Germans lived here and there was no doctor to be found within twenty miles. I made a quick decision because I had only twenty dollars left, returned to Milwaukee, got my things and in a few days had plenty to do, at which time the little pharmacy of C. M. Demann did me good service. I had the good fortune to be immediately called upon for several surgical operations which turned out well -- an amputation of five toes, and a light hernia opertion.

During the first days after my arrival I became acquainted with the young son of the elder boclo who had been roaming around in Milwaukee all summer, was ill and without surplus funds. I asked him to join me and had him with me for two years, during which time I dispelled his tedium by teaching him how to dispense medicine which has not provided him with a sure living. He had received an inviation from a Milwaukee physician to look after the latter's pharmacy for half the proceeds. Thereby he saved considerable money and now has his own pharmacy here. But to return to my story.

I resided in a small room in the hotel which was my living room, bedroom, and pharmacy combined. For this I paid fourteen shilling or one and three-fourths dollars per week. During this time Boclo and I often suffered from homesickness, because we had no company and no diversion except hunting, which I soon had to give up, because patients continued to come while I was away on a hunt, the same fate that Baus had.

In the summer of 1847 I bought my first horse which was a great relief, what with bad roads and a wide spread, that is, far distant practice. In the same year i began to build my house, a so-called frame house as they are customarily built here where there is not building stone.*** The entire house is constructed of boards. Beams three or four inches thick cut at the saw mill, form the skeleton. Over these, boards, one-quarter of an inch thick and six inches wide which are likewise cut in the saw mill, are nialed like roof tiles, one over-lapping another. The roof is coverd with one-inch boards and over these are nailed shingles of leather or cedar wood. Flooring, windows and doors are here made by machine and are inexpensive.

*Dr. Frederick A. Luning who later moved to Milwaukee and in 1860 had his office at the corner of Main and Oneida streets.

**Conrad Horneffer who built and operated Cedarburg's first hotel.

***Later much fine limestone was quarried near Cedarburg and many stone houses dated from the middle fifties are standing today. Among these is the five story stone mill built by Hilgen and Schroeder in 1855.